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Posted
14 minutes ago, MrGiggles said:

I replaced the head gasket a few months ago, it appeared to have been a leaking a little bit externally.

To answer your other question, when I pulled the #3 plug wire, it ran no different. 

Spark on that cylinder is great, compression is 120# on all three, and I have swapped the middle and lower carbs fixing another issue.

Interesting.  If it was still all together I'd have you stuff a rag in the throat of carb#3 to see if that changes anything.   

I guess I'd replace those crankshaft seals, head gasket, and the exhaust cover gaskets, then reassemble and see how it goes.  

Posted

I got that lower bearing pressed off, and the powerhead mostly assembled today.

I don't ever want to do that without a ring compressor again. Hose clamps do not work worth a crap.

Unfortunately my gasket set order was cancelled, so I'll need to wait for those. Need the base and reed gaskets for sure.  

-Austin

Posted
2 hours ago, MrGiggles said:

 

I don't ever want to do that without a ring compressor again. Hose clamps do not work worth a crap.

YEAH!   Assembled crankshafts are a PIA.   I hate them too. 😂

Posted

Well I got a hose thawed out and got it running in a barrel.

It doesn't really seem to run any differently. It's not lean sneezing like before, but ocassionally "putts" through the exhaust and stalls. Smells super rich, smokes like crazy, if I lean out the idle air screws that it starts to putt more and runs worse.

Hitting the choke causes it to stall. Stuffing a rag in #3 seems to make no difference.

Pulling the #3 plug doesn't seem to make a whole lot of difference. If it does, it is so slight that it's hardly discernible. On the middle and top cylinder it's a lot more obvious.

-Austin

Posted
2 hours ago, MrGiggles said:

Pulling the #3 plug doesn't seem to make a whole lot of difference. If it does, it is so slight that it's hardly discernible. On the middle and top cylinder it's a lot more obvious.

Wish I could take a look at it.     

Can you put some pre-mixed fuel in a squirt bottle and feed some into the lower carb throat to see how it reacts ?  

If no reaction, hook up a timing light to the #3 plug wire, and monitor the pulses.    Compare to the #1 or #2 plug wire for brightness and consistency of the flashes.   

Does the fuel pump get its vacuum from cylinder#3 ?   If so, pull the fuel pump vacuum hose off, squeeze the primer bulb up good and tight and make sure no raw fuel is oozing out of that hose.  Could be a leaky diaphragm.

Posted
10 minutes ago, fishinwrench said:

Wish I could take a look at it.     

Can you put some pre-mixed fuel in a squirt bottle and feed some into the lower carb throat to see how it reacts ?  

If no reaction, hook up a timing light to the #3 plug wire, and monitor the pulses.    Compare to the #1 or #2 plug wire for brightness of the flashes.   

I could get it to you if you've got an opening. Ain't that far.

I can give #3 a shot of brake cleaner. I'll mess with it some more tomorrow.

I'll have to dig out the timing light, spark on #3 is identical to 1 and 2, and I have tested the whole ignition system before.

-Austin

Posted
3 minutes ago, MrGiggles said:

 

I'll have to dig out the timing light, spark on #3 is identical to 1 and 2, and I have tested the whole ignition system before.

I'm slammed until the end of March.     

Check my edit above in regards to the fuel pump vacuum.    

Don't use brake cleaner.  Use the same fuel that the other carbs are being fed.

Posted
18 minutes ago, fishinwrench said:

I'm slammed until the end of March.     

Check my edit above in regards to the fuel pump vacuum.    

Don't use brake cleaner.  Use the same fuel that the other carbs are being fed.

Forgot to mention, I put new diaphragms in the pump last summer. It does run off #3.

Would putting a vacuum gauge on the crankcase balance ports tell you anything meaningful about the crank sealing rings?

I'm going to play with the TVS as well, that is what controls the timing curve. 

 

-Austin

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