Turd Polishing

[MrGiggles]

Took it out again last night. Ran much better this time, still have some tweaking to do on the low speed jets. 

It still grinds a little when you engage reverse. Almost feels like the detent is too strong, or the control box is dry and binding. It practically falls into forward gear, but it takes a good bit of force to push the linkage into reverse by hand, with the cable disconnected. I've played with the linkage adjustment but it hasn't helped. If I really slam the linkage back by hand, it will engage normally without grinding, but not with the control. Any thoughts there Wrench? Forward works just fine.

[fishinwrench]

5 hours ago, MrGiggles said:

If I really slam the linkage back by hand, it will engage normally without grinding, but not with the control. Any thoughts there Wrench? Forward works just fine.

Slam it!   That's better than letting it ratchet into gear.   If it's a Suzuki control box it should be robust enough to handle it.  Odds are you only use reverse once or twice a day anyway.   

I sure wouldn't pour any more money into it (if it were me).

[MrGiggles]

On 3/11/2020 at 5:39 PM, fishinwrench said:

Slam it!   That's better than letting it ratchet into gear.   If it's a Suzuki control box it should be robust enough to handle it.  Odds are you only use reverse once or twice a day anyway.   

I sure wouldn't pour any more money into it (if it were me).

I'm with you there. Haven't spent more than it's worth yet, but it's not far away.

Slamming it seems to work well enough. I think a lot of the problem is dried up grease in the control box, needs some lube.

I had it out a couple more times. It runs well on plane and idles okay. Still kind of cranky at low speeds though, and starts hard the first time. I'm still running premix with the oil injection, that may be part of it. I'm still figuring out the quirks of this motor, too. I think they all have a unique startup sequence.

I went down to a 15P and gained 1mph in the top and a lot more holeshot. Can't trim up much without porpoising. May move the motor up a hole or two and see if that does anything.

[MrGiggles]

On 3/11/2020 at 5:39 PM, fishinwrench said:

Slam it!   That's better than letting it ratchet into gear.   If it's a Suzuki control box it should be robust enough to handle it.  Odds are you only use reverse once or twice a day anyway.   

I sure wouldn't pour any more money into it (if it were me).

Got another one for you Wrench.

Been running this motor and it's been pretty trouble free. It's terribly cranky and aggravating at low speed though, carb adjustments help but have not made a huge difference. Once you get past 1/4 throttle it will run like a champ.

Today it finally clicked that it has always bubbled exhaust out of the prop while idling and not out of the port further up the leg below the powerhead, like every motor I've ever seen did. I suspect mud daubers have it plugged. I've tried running a wire up through there, but the passage is pretty small and too curved to get very far.

Any suggestions? 

[fishinwrench]

The closest thing I have at the moment for an example is this Nissan 90 lower unit. 

Where the exhaust tube goes is a rubber seal.   If that seal is damaged or missing it will cause backpressure in the exhaust and you'll have poor idling and a lousy hole shot.     Not sure if your Suzi has an exhaust tube seal, but if it does you might oughta inspect it. 

Improper carb linkage sync will cause the same running condition.  It's important that the throttle plates open and close at the same rate and are all in the exact same position at all times.   No sense in making any idle mixture adjustments if the sync is off even slightly. 

[MrGiggles]

8 hours ago, fishinwrench said:

The closest thing I have at the moment for an example is this Nissan 90 lower unit. 

Where the exhaust tube goes is a rubber seal.   If that seal is damaged or missing it will cause backpressure in the exhaust and you'll have poor idling and a lousy hole shot.     Not sure if your Suzi has an exhaust tube seal, but if it does you might oughta inspect it. 

Improper carb linkage sync will cause the same running condition.  It's important that the throttle plates open and close at the same rate and are all in the exact same position at all times.   No sense in making any idle mixture adjustments if the sync is off even slightly. 

There is a rubber gasket but it appears to be higher up, between what Suzuki calls the engine holder and drive shaft housing.

Am I correct in that it should not be bubbling out of the prop at idle, but instead venting through the smaller port just below the powerhead?

 

[MrGiggles]

Swapping the plugs made all the difference. No more missing and stalling. It still idles a little rough but that may be normal for these.

It's still a little cranky and hard to start when cold, I'm not totally sure that the choke is closing all the way, still need to look into that.

[MrGiggles]

Well, I wish I could say it's been smooth sailing. It hasn't.

I have never gotten that Suzuki to idle right. 

I have been through the carbs multiple times, synced them twice, many sets of plugs, tested the ignition (Clymer is the only one with data for testing these with a DVA), replaced the TVS and adjusted it properly, you name it. The bottom cylinder has never worked at idle. As soon as you get over the hump, it'll take off and run like a dream.

I pulled the reeds off of the lower cylinder, hoping to find a problem, and didn't. Out of curiosity, I filled the lower crank bearing with diesel, and it all leaked out in the time it took me to eat lunch. A leaking lower crank seal makes sense, with symptoms I have.

I pulled the powerhead and stripped it. The lower crank bearing is rough, likely from water intrusion, and the crank seal is hard and worn. 

I've got parts on the way. If if this doesn't work, it's getting stripped, the good parts are going to Ebay, the rest can get melted down into a new Kia.

[Terrierman]

3 hours ago, MrGiggles said:

Well, I wish I could say it's been smooth sailing. It hasn't.

I have never gotten that Suzuki to idle right. 

I have been through the carbs multiple times, synced them twice, many sets of plugs, tested the ignition (Clymer is the only one with data for testing these with a DVA), replaced the TVS and adjusted it properly, you name it. The bottom cylinder has never worked at idle. As soon as you get over the hump, it'll take off and run like a dream.

I pulled the reeds off of the lower cylinder, hoping to find a problem, and didn't. Out of curiosity, I filled the lower crank bearing with diesel, and it all leaked out in the time it took me to eat lunch. A leaking lower crank seal makes sense, with symptoms I have.

I pulled the powerhead and stripped it. The lower crank bearing is rough, likely from water intrusion, and the crank seal is hard and worn. 

I've got parts on the way. If if this doesn't work, it's getting stripped, the good parts are going to Ebay, the rest can get melted down into a new Kia.

And then you're gonna repower with a nice Mercury 4 stroke, right?

[MrGiggles]

37 minutes ago, Terrierman said:

And then you're gonna repower with a nice Mercury 4 stroke, right?

If my Gamestop shares had done a little better, that might have been on the table.

Some advice, when you're up almost 700%, take your money and run. Don't wait for it to crash and sell for 300% like me. 

Besides, why spend all your time fishing when you could work on boat motors instead?