Help Wrench! Etec keeps blowing fuse?

[BassMaster#1]

Gotcha, i will tear it all apart tomorrow and see if i can see anything.  Thanks

[rps]

You know, sometimes the wrench can be "prickly."

Threads like this show why we value him.

 

[fishinwrench]

Well that's a first.  I've never been called a Prick so eloquently in my life 😊 

 

[BassMaster#1]

Wrench, just started to look at this issue as it has been raining the lasy couple days.  I want to go back on the topic about blowing when it cranks.  Thought it blows when in the cracking position but it blows at the first position.   Guess my key has a on position then if you push a bit further it cranks but then springs back to the first positon.  Not sure if this makes a difference in your diagnosis.  

With that being said i did see a few nics on the wire but dont think this is my issue as it still popped on me when i pulled the wires out.  It also looks like two wires sets connect to two different harness sets shown below and then go into the controller.  I disconnected the one harness set that show red, green, blue and it still popped the fuse.  Im guess this harness set is for tilt trim and the other harness set that has the yellow/red & black/yellow wire set is the cranking wires and may be where my issue is.  

My next steps are to open up the controller/throttle case and see if i can disconnect individual wires to test.  

Could a bad starter or starter solenoid cause this issue?

[BassMaster#1]

Also noticed today that when i turn key to first position the rpm jumps a small bit as the fuse blew

[fishinwrench]

6 hours ago, BassMaster#1 said:

Could a bad starter or starter solenoid cause this issue?

Not if it blows the fuse just by turning the ignition/fuel pump on (key only to the RUN position).  

You may have a fuel pump, or pump relay shorted out.   Or it could be a tach or guage shorted out. 

Better just take it to someone trained to deal with it.    I'm 3+ weeks booked right now or I'd offer to diagnose and fix it. 

[BassMaster#1]

Ok, thanks for the update.

[BassMaster#1]

On 5/20/2021 at 9:10 PM, fishinwrench said:

Not if it blows the fuse just by turning the ignition/fuel pump on (key only to the RUN position).  

You may have a fuel pump, or pump relay shorted out.   Or it could be a tach or guage shorted out. 

Better just take it to someone trained to deal with it.    I'm 3+ weeks booked right now or I'd offer to diagnose and fix it. 

Hello wrench, one more question if you don't mind.  I opened up the controller and disconnected the purple wire.  After doing this I was able to crank the motor without blowing the fuse.  It would not start but crank over and assume that this wire is needed to turn on the fuel pump?  If I am able to crank the motor with out the purple wire connected do I then need to look at the fuel pump moduel/ harness you mentioned? Sounds like the other location would be where it feeds the tac and star disconnecting the purple wires there?  Just want to confirm with the motor cranking over it still is not related to the computer?  Sounds like the shops around me are 6 weeks out so trying to diagnose as much as I can.  Thanks

[fishinwrench]

The purple wire powers up everything except the starter (it powers up the ECM, Fuel pump, voltage regulator, and all of the gauges).  

You should be able to hook up an ohmmeter from purple wire to ground....and then start disconnecting harness plugs until you get an infinity reading, and that will tell you which portion of the harness the problem lies.  But first you will have to disconnect the purple wire from the key switch because the purple wire is always grounded through the key switch when the switch is OFF.....but should be ungrounded when the key is ON.   It could possibly be a bad key switch, but I've never seen a switch fail in that fashion.  

I hope that makes sense. 🙄

[BassMaster#1]

33 minutes ago, fishinwrench said:

The purple wire powers up everything except the starter (it powers up the ECM, Fuel pump, voltage regulator, and all of the gauges).  

You should be able to hook up an ohmmeter from purple wire to ground....and then start disconnecting harness plugs until you get an infinity reading, and that will tell you which portion of the harness the problem lies.  But first you will have to disconnect the purple wire from the key switch because the purple wire is always grounded through the key switch when the switch is OFF.....but should be ungrounded when the key is ON.   It could possibly be a bad key switch, but I've never seen a switch fail in that fashion.  

I hope that makes sense. 🙄

Also wanted to add that I just disconnected the JA-1 harness, and when I turned key to on position I was able to see the red led systems lights come on the dash. Im and now able to isolate to the specific harness and wire. Guessing this tells me the computer is fine?