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Everything posted by fishinwrench
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Lower Osage River
fishinwrench replied to Drbucketmouth57's topic in Bagnell Dam Tailwater/Lower Osage River
Sounds like 3 cylinders (70?) And definately not black. I'm going with a johnnyrude, but it could be a Yammie. How close am I ? -
Whadaya mean, you can't palm a round reel......? "a bowling ball" HE SAYS ......... I oughta hit you over the head with a 6500C That's a MANS reel...boy LOL
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In The Seemingly Endless Search For Gainful Employment...
fishinwrench replied to patfish's topic in General Chat
I've seen them in catalogs. That big ol'spool looks kinda gay (like something out of a 1930 Abercrombie and Fitch catalog).....but maybe they are the dung. -
Man, that looks like a nice patch of sinsemilla on the right...No wonder you were so hungry I wish we had fish like that in the Niangua.
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Wow, very nice !
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I take the split rings off and tie directly to the eyelet. You really don't loose any action that way (that's a myth with no science to back it up). There is no real need for a split ring at the eyelet. Nor is there a reason to tie that pathetic Rapala loop knot on floating balsa minnows. My belief is that there is plenty of "give" (flexability) in all types of fishing line to allow the bait to wobble, walk the dog, or do whatever it is designed to do. And when you are fighting a fish the hinge is still there above the hooks, so your knot doesn't slip and slide on the eyelet during the fight, like you might envision. Doesn't it piss you off when you make a perfect shot with a crankbait...and then when you start the retrieve it does the whirly-gigs all the way back ? When you eliminate the split ring from the eyelet the line doesn't get fouled in the hooks near as easily. Crosslock type snaps will fail occasionally, and they tend to jam up sideways on the eyelet of some baits. I use them on DD22's but I crimp them shut permanently.
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Fin clipping.... Yep, Huge pet peve of mine. Here's an interesting little tidbit though: I read that if you cut the adipose fin off a Trout, Salmon or Catfish that they won't travel as far. It supposably effects their homing abilities. I just found that kind of amazing.
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I too used to be an uncontrollable tinkerer, but then I realized that when the chips were down...and money was on the line, I always reached for the baits that I hadn't "re-developed". None of my total makeovers ever succeeded to the point of instilling complete confidence. There's a few minor mods that I still do to different types of baits before I ever get them wet, but I've never played with skirts on the belly hooks . I do tie bucktails on my Tiny Torpedo's, and I upgrade hooks and alter line tie configuration on just about everything. (I don't like tying to split rings)
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Trailer Ramp Ettiquette-sick And Tired
fishinwrench replied to CrappieMagnet's topic in General Angling Discussion
Exactly ! You know you're in for a good time when the Escalades and Bayliners start pulling in. -
Trailer Ramp Ettiquette-sick And Tired
fishinwrench replied to CrappieMagnet's topic in General Angling Discussion
A day at the launch ramp can be the most entertaining show of a lifetime. I've seen it all I think... But here's a few highlights... Guys screaming at their wives, then swapping sides and doing a far worse job than the wife did. Busted asses, complete with blood and broken bones. (TRAILER TONGUES ARE SLIPPERY WHEN WET...DUH !) Vehicles under water. (I've seen it happen 3 times) Props and skegs destroyed. Trailers coming unhitched. A boat still attached to the trailer....being paddled to shore. (apparently lacking safety chains) Battery exploding. Motor being revved upwards to 10,000 RPM out of water and grenading the powerhead. Engine jumping off the transom of a boat while gooseing it on the trailer. Trailer tire blowouts while UNDER WATER......(that's really cool to see ! it's like a hand-grenade going off under water). People falling in boats. People falling OUT OF boats. Hole shots with the trolling motor down....SNAP ! Guy tossing another guy his "Golden Rule" bump board and severing a major neck artery. Poodle falling out and getting run over by a boat (she lived through it). Motors being put into reverse with loose prop nuts..... and people diving to recover the prop. Bad tosses, and vehicle keys being thrown into the water....and people diving trying to recover them. Boats launced without bilge plugs in....and people scrambling to get the boat back on the trailer before it sinks. Clutches smoking... and the pleasant aroma of a low lingering cloud of hot asbestos. Boats out in the cove running in circles...With nobody in them. Child falling in a MDC access crapper.....Poor kid, he was covered from head to toe and scared to death....but Mom and Dad wouldn't even touch him. A border collie visciously attacking an outboard while his owner was vigorously pulling on the starter rope and cussing (I guess the dog thought the motor had ahold of him). -
Strike King and Mizmo are the only mass produced tubes that I like. I prefer the double-dip type that have a "waistline". I prefer tubes without salt, but I deal with rusty hooks and baits that tear way too easily just so I can use tubes with what I consider the proper shape. A size (and style) between the SK Bitsy and the SK Coffee tube would be perfect IMO. I'm just really hard to please when it come to my plastics, and I wish manufacturers would spend an extra micro-second and cut the tails right....that bugs the crap outa me.
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Live Bait Or Artificial?
fishinwrench replied to CrappieMagnet's topic in General Angling Discussion
Ewww ! a finger ? That sounds like turtle bait. How do you rig it? -
That's ok, you can bag.... And sure girlfriends are welcome too
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Superb ! darn, feels like Winter 'round here.
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Outboard Winterizing Routine
fishinwrench replied to fishinwrench's topic in Tips & Tricks, Boat Help and Product Review
Ham, I have customers (mostly dock builders, and fishermen) that never winterize their outboards, and I never winterize mine either. As long as you are using it, no worries. Just be sure to keep the motor straight up and down (not tilted) during freezing conditions so that all the water drains from the powerhead and water pump housing. And make sure there's no water in the gearcase (check and change gearlube often). Those of us that use them all year just have to take a chance on piddly things like speedo's, livewell drains, and W/P guages, and we just DEAL with stiff steering in the early morning hours, and chunks of ice in the livewells. Truth be known: Outboards LOVE to breathe cold crisp air. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Here's a few tips for operating in cold temps: Always pull your bilge plug after trailering, and DON'T forget to put it back in before launch. (attach it to your key floater with a twist-tie when you take it out). Before leaving the trailer run the steering wheel back and forth (lock to lock) a few times. Leave livewell valves OPEN, and never attempt to close them FORCEFULLY if the air temp is below freezing. A frozen plastic livewell valve will break easily, and will put a ton of water in the boat fast, and you might not know it until water starts coming out of the floor drain. Same goes with bilge and livewell pumps, if they are frozen stuck you'll blow a fuse, or breaker when you hit the switch (or if the auto switch is activated). So carry extra fuses if so equipped, and get familiar with which ones go where. PFD's and kill switches ALWAYS If you fall overboard in a bassboat while dressed in heavy winter clothing you won't be able to crawl back in, so don't waste time and energy trying....use the cavitation plate of the motor as a step and operate the tilt switch on the side of the motor cowling to lift you back into the boat. A thermos full of hot sweet Tea and a shot (or two) of cinnamon Schnapp's (Hot darn) will kill the shivers quick, so you can get back to the truck FAST if you notice signs of becoming hypothermic. I know this goes against the rules for combating hypothermia but you can't drive a boat when you are shivering out of your skin, and time is what you are really combating. Geeze, I hate thinking about Winter already. Where did the Summer go ? It's all a blur -
Hey, I'm hosting an OAK and WALNUT leaf "parade" at my place here in a few weeks I think. Everyone come...and bring a rake !
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Don't let him anywhere near your outboard. Basturd's blown more powerheads than Lake-X
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I've heard the 20.00 and 50.00 replacement fee from several sources....and I'm confused. I have had 3 Premiers and 1 Legend Ultra replaced (within the last 4 years) and the cost (ie: the amount I had to send with the returned rod) was always 12.00 Just wondering what is with this 20 and 50 business I keep hearing you guys say ? I'll also add that on all occasions I had the rods returned in 4-6 days from the time I sent it off. You can't beat that. I can't say enough good things about St.Croix
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Bill, Not sure who you talked to, but they made a mistake.......Avid "RODS" are lifetime (except for the surf rods). And Premiers are 5 year. Avid "REELS" have a 1 year warranty..... (possible explanation for the confusion) LIFETIME WARRANTY LegendXtreme Rods Legend Elite® Rods Legend Ultra® Rods Legend Tournament® Rods Legend® Inshore Rods Avid Series® Rods Avid Series® Inshore Rods Reign™ Rods Legend® Fly Reels SCV, SCIV, SCIII Rod Blanks 5-YEAR WARRANTY Triumph® Rods Mojo Bass Rods Premier® Rods Wild River® Rods Tidemaster® Rods Avid Series® Surf Rods SCII, SCIIW, SCI, E-Glass Rod Blanks Note: 2005 and prior years offered a 2-year warranty. 1-YEAR WARRANTY Avid Series® Spinning & Casting Reels Premier® Spinning & Fly Reels Legend® Ice Rods Premier® Ice Rods
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Outboard Winterizing Routine
fishinwrench replied to fishinwrench's topic in Tips & Tricks, Boat Help and Product Review
Snug it up firm, then tighten further as needed to align the locking tabs (merc) or cotter pin (J/E). Nobody that I know uses a torque wrench on the prop nut, you just want it snug and secure. -
I've had a few requests for outboard / bassboat winterizing instructions already, so I thought I'd just post it up for those about to give it up for the season. 1. Add fuel stabilizer to the fuel tank. (EFI/DFI engines need to be run with treated fuel prior to winter storage, carb engines don't). 2. pull the spark plugs and spray fogging oil into the cylinders. 3. With the engine straight up and down, crank the engine over for a few seconds with the spark plugs out. (this distributes the fogging oil around the cylinders, and clears the water pump housing of any trapped water), then put the plugs back in. 4. remove the upper and lower gearcase drain screws and drain lube from the lower unit. Check the condition of the screw gaskets (fiber washers) and replace if needed. Refill from the bottom until lube comes out the top hole, then install the top screw first.(that keeps you from loosing very much lube while installing the bottom screw). If there is more than 1/4 cup of water in the gearcase, or the lube appears white and milky you have a seal leaking. It's normal to have a few teaspoons of water come out before the lube starts draining, that's just from condensation. 5. Bend the prop nut locking tabs free of the prop bushing grooves and remove the prop nut and the prop. Remove the thrust washer (3' stainless disk behind the prop) and remove any fishing line that might be around the propshaft. Wipe the shaft clean, rub some grease on it, and put the prop back on. Don't forget the bend the locking tabs into the grooves on the bushing. 6. Open the livewell drains and pour some RV antifreeze (pink/non-toxic) into the livewells until it comes out the drains on the back of the boat. 7. Remove the speedometer tubing from the back of the speedo (under the dash) and blow all the water out of it. If you have a water pressure gauge on the dash do the same with it. (I've only seen ONE pressure gauge burst in 25 years, but if I don't mention it somebody will sure enough catch me on it) LOL 8. Disconnect all battery leads, check the electrolyte level in the batterys and top off if needed with distilled water (gel-cell guys can skip this). Charge batterys to full capacity and leave them disconnected. Charge them up again every 60 days or so if possible. 9. Store the motor straight up and down (not tilted) if possible. If you have to keep it tilted be sure to cover the lower unit with a plastic bag or something so that rain water, ice, or snow doesn't build up inside the exhaust cavity. If your blessed with stray cats, chipmunks, field mice, or other homeless critters, it doesn't hurt to put a dish full of moth balls here and there under the boat cover, and even a few inside the engine cowling. Your DONE ! Kiss her ni-nite
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Thanks for clearing that up PD, I was wondering who the heck Claude was. I think we officially have someone to blame all those dispicable and blatently rude acts on now. Shuffling, Powerbait contaners, holding fish up by the gill plates, floating cigarrette butts, ect. .... Musta been Claude !
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When my kid was too little to find felt sole boots for, I glued some prickly nylon trailer bunk carpeting to the bottoms of Wal-Mart hiking boots for her. They worked like a dream. If they ever quit making felt soles I suppose I'll go that route. Speaking of this: How is the Didymo situation on the White and Norfork doing ? (same, better, worse?) I haven't been down there for going on 3 years.