dgilchrist

So I'm shopping 20 hp props for a new boat build and have looked at Mercury, Yamaha, Suzuki and Tohatsu. All great 4 stroke, EFI motors that I'm sure I'd be happy with. I've seen some threads about how manufactures may share components between hp classes like Suzuki 15 and 20 models. Considering that, is the key power measurement the rated KW of each motor? I know prop size and pitch plays a big factor, trim while running, etc..... Just trying to compare apples to apples on power output of the engine.

Wow - that was an excellent presentation. For those of us who are avid trout fishermen in these tailwater and watch the releases every day to plan when, where, and how to fish each week and month throughout the year, getting the 30,000 foot view of the management plans is very helpful.

I'm no mechanic or expert. Just going by the head to head comparison test results that Mercury lists on their web site. I grew up on 2 strokes and after getting a 4 stroke, I'll never go back. The fuel economy, one pull reliability, quiet ride, and replacing carb with EFI are major performance improvements for me.

OK with a used motor as long as it's a 2018 or later model electronic ignition, EFI 4 stroke. The Mercury 20 hp 4 stroke only weights 99 Lbs and out performs previous 2 stroke models. And the Yamaha 25 hp is only 126 Lbs and has the low idle RPM adjuster that lets you fine tune trolling speed in 50 RPM increments.

Fortunately, almost all our rivers have strictly catch and release zones so those who want to target older fish have a chance at catching big ones. Not yesterdays truck trout. Plenty of catch out holes full of 10' fish for those who just fish to fill a frying pan.

Here's an article from the Colorado Trout Biologist about proper handling techniques. You can find the same principles promoted by most State Game & Fish Trout biologists and more highly regulated trout waters all over the US and the world for that matter. It's not Holier Than Thou attitude. It's about being good sportsmen and respecting the resources we all share and enjoy. Trout should be handled and released in a way that affords them the best chance for survival No matter the species (brown, brook, rainbow, golden or cutthroat), the trout is one of the most fragile of all the freshwater fishes. A trout's needs and requirements for continued survival are some of the most demanding of any freshwater game fish and both it and its underwater habitat should be treated with respect. Like any other fish, trout possess a “slime” coating that protects them from acquiring disease and infection. Once the slime coating has been compromised, the trout is susceptible to invasion from a host of life-threatening illnesses and potentially deadly injuries. Here is a list of the top four immediate needs for optimum care of any trout:•Get the trout to hand as soon as possible. Overplaying a trout causes a potentially catastrophic build-up of lactic acid in the muscle tissues. Lactic acid accumulation prevents the fish from swimming normally, which makes it a target for predators. •Help protect the trout’s slime coating by not handling the fish at all, if possible. If handling is necessary for whatever reason, it should only be done after completely wetting your hands. Handling should be kept to an absolute minimum. Please, don’t grasp the trout with a towel. And never drag a fish up on the shore. This is particularly important in alkaline lakes where a heavy coating of slime is necessary to protect the fish.•Keeping a trout out of the water is like keeping a human under water; breathing is impossible. The less time a trout stays out of the water, the better its chances for post-release survival. Lactic acid increases as a fish is deprived of oxygen when it is taken out of the water. Extreme levels of lactic acid will cause paralysis. So limit the time that a fish is out of water to a maximum of 20 seconds or so.•Once the hook is removed from the trout’s lip, gently cradle the trout underwater facing upstream. Allow the trout a few moments to collect its’ thoughts, lose some lactic acid, and regain equilibrium. Once the trout has recovered, it will swim away from you faster than a car thief running from the cops.While those are the four most basic items to understand, there are other considerations and “helps” for a successful release.•If catch and release is the goal, pinching down the barbs on your hooks makes removal much easier. My personal experience is that if I keep a bend in the rod and tension on the fish, barbless hooks lose no more fish than barbed.•The slime coating is further protected by using the newer style, rubber nets now on the market. The older nylon nets are very hard on the fish. Next time you need to pick out a net, look for one that is made for C&R.•The use of forceps or hemostats is helpful in securing the hook and removing it without damaging the fish’s mouth.•If a fish is hooked deeply, the best idea is to simply snip the leader close to the mouth, rather than attempting to use a disgorger or pulling the hook free.•“Lipping” trout is very harmful, as the bones of their lips and mouth are fragile. They cannot be handled like a bass or with a Boga type tool. Holding a large trout vertically from the lower lip can damage the narrow isthmus area at the bottom of the gills. If you want to lift a fish for a picture, grasp the fish in front of the tail and under the belly to support the weight as evenly as possible.•The best way to weigh a fish is to lift it in a net. Weight the net with the fish and then subtract the weight of the net alone.•Avoid getting your fingers anywhere inside the gill plate. The least disturbance of the gills can kill a trout in a few hours, even though it looked fine swimming away from you.•Trout caught while fishing deep in lakes suffer from barotrauma (the bends) when brought to the surface. These fish must be released as soon as possible in order to improve survival. If the fish appears bloated and can’t swim back down by itself, it is best to use a descender weight with a clip or barbless hook to return the fish to depth quickly. Recent studies have found that deflating trout with a needle is a bad idea. Whether you release all the fish you land or selectively release fish to enhance your time on the water, these tips will allow for the best chance of survival for your trout. They are beautiful creatures and provide food and pleasure for us. Whenever we release them we should always do all we can to improve their survival.

I found it in the C&R practices that a trout biologist posted. I can copy and paste that full report in here if ya'll want. Lot's of good biological information on the lactic acid build up in trout and the importance of letting them swim out of your hand or landing net when they a full recovered from the fight of being caught. As well as the jaw bone structure and importance to never use a device to to weigh them where the fish hang from a clamp.

I visited the Powersite Dam this past fall but didn't fish it. The engineer I was meeting with at the dam said their release schedule syncs with Table Rocks since they don't have the capacity to store water. So my question is - if Table Rock is not releasing, is there enough water below the dam to fish now with Bull Shoals being well above power pool? And with all the dams releasing pretty hard this week to get the lake levels down, is if safe to fish when Taney has multiple generators cranking out 150 MW?

Definitely. A lot of folks just don't know that a trout's jaw bones can't support the body weight.

I've been catching at least one walleye nearly every trip below Beaver on streamers while trout fishing. I always think I have a brown on because they plow down toward the bottom. I've always released them all because I don't even know the slot size for keeping them. But love eating a Walleye.

Just wanted to share a few "best practices" for handling trout. Whether you release all the trout you catch, or just those required by the slot limit, this will help make sure they survive for others to enjoy catching them.

Holy cow - I haven't seen a rainbow or brown nearly that big below Beaver before. I did catch an 18" brown two weeks ago on a mini-dungeon. Thanks for the C&R so others might enjoy the awesome experience you had. Good job!!!

Thanks. With a light weight 20 or 25 hp outboard, prop with Jack plate is what I was hoping to end up with.