tjm

The waders weigh what the waders weigh and the water inside weighs nothing compared to the water outside, you can demonstrate this by filling an empty bucket in the pond or creek and lifting it under water, it will seem slightly lighter if anything, until it is above the surface. Then the water will add approximately 8# per gallon. I only mention this because so many times I've seen the myth that full waders somehow pull a person under so many times. They are a little awkward but swimming in them wasn't that hard. The chill of almost ice water does really slow you down though,

Full waders don't weigh any more than empty waders, in the water. I've swum with full waders twice. They do get a bit heavy when you try to climb out, which is why I won't wear stocking foot waders, bootfoots are just easier to escape from.

Not any law requiring that one confess to crimes on social media, but people still do it.

Where's the funny part?

Are a protected species.

That would depend on the day. Not very far as a general rule, because I hate to drive past one fishing hole to get to another. But then I don't target a particular species as much as I take a piece of water and try to find what's in it that I can get to eat feathers. And I don't mind catching the same fish over and over. But if you count all the coming and going to the same areas, I've no doubt that some years my mileage was up in the thousands, maybe 2-4000 miles to and from more or less local fishing. A man's got do what a man's got to do, if that's 500 miles to add a life species, it just is.

I think it's more the wasp waist than it is color, I tied some RC with yellow floss back then and results were about equal to the red. Used a bright green too. I will bet that your 420 catches trout and I'll guess that like your Dalmation, the magazines will say it is a "midge cluster". I guess that "midge cluster" explains the Adams and the RC too. Anything that's not designated Caddis must be Midge.

I suppose if you are eating sausage in the outhouse to begin with that a bit of floor dirt wouldn't put you off your appetite any.

I've tied the palmer with yellow floss body and with peacock body but the combo is one I haven't done yet. I will steal that idea from you now. Back when I first started the Royal Coachman was my favorite, tied hundreds of them in sizes from ~#20-#10, every wing style Fan Wing to Variant. Caught lots of fish on them too. I believe there is something about that body that works. I haven't tied one in years now though and I don't know why.

Nice flies.

@FishnDaveyou've probably mentioned it, but I'm curious what fly or flies work best on those various carp?

So, C&R doesn't work? or are there poachers?

I've only been fishing RRSP since '85, and probably not more than 20-25 times per year; but I've never once been there when there were not lots and lots of trout. I have been there when none of those trout wanted to ride in my car. It's probably been 20 years since I fished any of the other parks and I never did fish them much at all, a couple times maybe three. I can't imagine try to hit them all in one day, or even three of them; too much drive time for me.

Probably tens of thousands of fish in any of the park streams at any given time aren't there? So if the a mile of Roaring River holds say 1000 fish, why couldn't you catch 50 of them? How many are killed or removed per day during C&R? Do we think that all the trout in the stream Friday will be dead by next month? Actually I was told by two different biologists, one years ago and one recently that that RRSP didn't get C&R stocking, but I'm not sure that either had full knowledge of what the hatchery manager actually does. Not stocking makes sense I guess on the concept that most trout survive C&R.

Do they stock the Parks for C&R? I was told once that they did not.

Living creatures always move. Fish react to motion more or less regardless of fly pattern. Personally I never use beads. If I want weight, I'd rather use lead wire under the body or a wire rib over the body, so that some degree of balance is achieved, In my mind the bead head makes the fly into a jig with head down action, and is better adapted to bobber fishing, but that's just my opinion. Most of my flies are unweighted these past several years and I get them to sink by other means on the rare occasion that I want to stir the mud. Even my Clouser Minnows are only lightly weighted with bead chain rather than dumbbells. Simply using a stout hook rather than a dry fly hook for the palmer/woolyworm/crackleback flies is enough that they can be fished just below the surface.

This is the https://www.scientificanglers.com/product/aircel/ in WF Note that the "head ends at ~40' and that from that point on the line is reduced to "running line" which will not support the head in a roll cast, it is said that "mass moves mass" and running/shooting line has very little mass. It will roll cast the entire head to 40' (probably similar to what you have currently) On that same page scrolling down to the level line, the line diameter is the same for the full length This is the line I use for stream bass fishing, it roll casts to as far as the line is long because the mass is uniform, but it has no front taper meaning that it makes more water disturbance when it hits the water than a tapered line. Trout can be put down by that disturbance. If you can find these lines on Amazon they are usually ~$25 This is SA Frequency DT, https://www.scientificanglers.com/product/frequency-double-taper/ Note that it has the same front taper that the WF has but has the extended body that ends only where the other front taper begins. Roll casts up to ~80' if the user is capable of it, my mentor in the 1970s regularly single hand spey cast to about 70' of line, and I've seen him use the full line, I never got quite that good. The Dt has another advantage in that if you are like me and damage the front of the line by stepping on it or something like that the line can easily be reversed and you have essentially a brand new line. SA about tapers- https://www.scientificanglers.com/understanding-fly-line-tapers/ This is the line I use for most of my trout fishing and some bass fishing, my go to lines for about 20 years- https://www.cortlandline.com/products/444-peach-double-taper-freshwater-fly-line I have over the past couple years been trying out cheap fly lines and have been surprised at well the China lines cast, I don't know how long they last yet, but, for adding lines to try various weights on rods they fish nicely. A more economical DT that I've used this year Verum DT And another cheapy that has gotten some good reviews Max Catch DT Now after all that, unless you plan to spey cast most of the time and you are looking for spey distance, the line you have now is likely just fine, unless it is one of the "aggressive" WF/shooting-head specialty lines. An ordinary rope or a 50' extension cord roll pretty well and demonstrate that the fancy designs are more for marketing than for angler need. Fly line technology really hasn't changed much since the '70s, it's basically plastic coated braid, but for marketing purposes the companies have to change something every year to keep sales up. New names for old products is common. One line tester a few years ago, reviewed many lines and determined that the only difference in some line models was as simple as 6" cut off the front taper or the color of the plastic. Try roll casting what ever line you have in #5 or #6, just to see if it helps to have more mass in your D loop, I think it will. And it may just be a matter of getting familiar with the new rod and the timing required for it. I recall as a new flyrodder being concerned that my line or rod wasn't quite as good as needed because my ~40' roll casts always came up short of where the fish were in the pond, and asking old Jean if he would give my rig a test cast to see if I needed to change something, so, he wiggles my St Croix around a bit and pulled a lot of SA Supreme line off the reel and whips the rod right, left, right and popped off a nice spey cast to just beyond the trout . When I looked at the reel the line was taut and there was two turns left on the reel. He then retrieved some line and made another long spey cast that took the backing knot almost to the tiptop, hooked a trout, reeled it in, put the fish in his creel, then handed me back my rod and said to me "There's nothing wrong with your rod, you just need to learn how to cast." Kinda stuck with me and over the almost 50 years since then it's come to mind every time I have trouble with an unfamiliar rig. Every rod and line combo that I've ever tried would work, if I just learned how to cast that combo, of course some combos worked better than others and some were much easier to learn. Jean's been gone many years now and I'm still trying to learn how to get that last 20' or so of line out. about 65-70' seems to be my limit and I don't usually try for more than 45' anymore, distance isn't needed in the creeks like it is in ponds that are chest deep in three steps. Oh, and I was just guessing that the shop owner meant DT, because it's what I use and I've never heard of "diamond" lines. You really should ask him what line he was recommending. He knows the rod and can coach you better than I, because you are both there and I'm not.

The Wulff Triangle Taper does rollcast well for the distance that the head is long. About 40'-45' plus leader, but then like any other WF it turns into limp running line that can't support the head. It also has a very long front taper that gives very little loading up close. I've used them since the late '80s, most often a TT7 on an Orvis #5 rod. Any fly line will roll cast, but long level body roll casts best at distance. A "Long Belly" WF line works fine too. Warm water fishing where the fish are not leader shy I most often use an SA AirCel Level line L7F because that lack of front taper gets the rod loaded just that little bit quicker. @FoghornIt's supposed to be the same Asian made rod with different label, Pure Fishing owns both names along with many others.

Maybe he said "DT 5 weight? I much prefer (Double Taper) DT lines for roll/spey casting because they have long a level body/belly that carries the roll well. With WF (weight forward) lines I often find the running line is too close to the fly, meaning that the cast is limited to the WF "head" length. Going up that one line weight will mean a bit better rod loading with the D loop. I've used lines two weights heavy for roll casting and a weight lighter than rod rating for overhead casting for years. The sad truth is that there is no standard way to rate rods for line weight, and the numbers marked on the rods are really suggestions. Every 5' of line added to the cast ups the line mass by about one line weight. There is also a degree of subjectivity in what feels right and works best for an individual when lines and rods are matched, we aren't all 6'7"tall with arms as big as stovepipes, and our strokes vary as much as our sizes do. I also use DT lines for dry flies and surface streamers. A good DT that doesn't cost too much is the Cortland 444 Peach. or SA's equivalent the Mastery Double Taper. But I have some China DT lines that cast well @<$20 too. Your medium fast rod should be a general purpose rod according to all the reviews I see. One source from a few years ago said that Greys are sold under the Fenwick name in the USA. Pure Fishing Brands.

It's the only fair thing to do. Imposing public use on private land is pure socialism.

Just about every pinhead landowner will sell up, if you want to save the stream that much buy it.

I stay mostly with three styles, palmer, variant, and soft hackles for trout, colors and materials change on a whim.

only happen when people go there.

Not being a lawyer, my interpretation of trespass being "entering the property without the owners permission" would require the owner to be the complainant, no one else can know whether you have my permission or not.

yeppers