Hook Sharpening

[merc1997 Bo]

1 hour ago, Haris122 said:

Just wondering, when sharpening hooks, are you supposed to run the file or hook sharpener in a motion where you're basically sharpening first from further down the hook and on up to the hook point, or are you supposed to go from the hook point further on down the hook?

i always cut down to the point.

bo

[Haris122]

Cool, thanks merc.

[fishinwrench]

In my mind (because I'm not a metallurgist) there is a degree of sharpness where it is only good for one poke.  I wouldn't want the hook point so sharp that I had to touch it up after every fish, or everytime it bumped a rock.  If it feels really sticky on my calloused hands and won't slide across a fingernail I consider it sharp enough.   I don't feel that I miss or loose any fish because of a lack of hook sharpness.  Of course I could be wrong.  

[abkeenan]

29 minutes ago, fishinwrench said:

In my mind (because I'm not a metallurgist) there is a degree of sharpness where it is only good for one poke.  I wouldn't want the hook point so sharp that I had to touch it up after every fish, or everytime it bumped a rock.  If it feels really sticky on my calloused hands and won't slide across a fingernail I consider it sharp enough.   I don't feel that I miss or loose any fish because of a lack of hook sharpness.  Of course I could be wrong.  

I honestly think hook sharpness matters a lot more on trebles than it does on single hook baits like a t-rig, jig, etc. With a single hook typically you are letting it rip on the hookset. Plus, the fish already has the bait in it's mouth for starters. Most hooks are plenty sharp to penetrate the fishes mouth with a reasonable amount of force. Even less force is required for people that use braid. I've said this before with trebles, sometimes the fish isn't trying to eat your bait. It just slashes at it either to stun the bait or just to run it off from their territory. I have seen first hand what putting on a good set of trebles can do to improve hook up ratios by a substantial margin. From wiggle warts (VMC stock hooks) to Zara Spooks (crappy chrome plated ones), and jerkbaits you can bet you will get more fish stuck by swapping to Owner Stingers, Gammy's or Daiichi Death Traps.

[fishinwrench]

Then you have people that think you need a soft parabolic rod, BUT low stretch line, to fish a crankbait.   So much in the "science" of fishing is 100% mythical.    That's obvious when you consider that soft rods, low stretch line, and extremely sharp hooks are contradictory to the desired end result.

Certainly nothing "wrong" with extremely sharp hooks, as long as they stay sharp enough all day long.  But if that tiny microscopic point rolls over or breaks off, and you fail to notice it....then you're screwed.  I know the infamous Gamakatsu B10S that everyone loves is a perfect example of "too much".  Too sharp, and too much tempering for the job at hand (which is FISHING). 

[abkeenan]

58 minutes ago, fishinwrench said:

Then you have people that think you need a soft parabolic rod, BUT low stretch line, to fish a crankbait.   So much in the "science" of fishing is 100% mythical.    That's obvious when you consider that soft rods, low stretch line, and extremely sharp hooks are contradictory to the desired end result.

Certainly nothing "wrong" with extremely sharp hooks, as long as they stay sharp enough all day long.  But if that tiny microscopic point rolls over or breaks off, and you fail to notice it....then you're screwed.  I know the infamous Gamakatsu B10S that everyone loves is a perfect example of "too much".  Too sharp, and too much tempering for the job at hand (which is FISHING). 

The parabolic bend is true. I used to use a stouter fast action high modulus IM9 rod to crank with and it really wasn't designed for that task. I ripped a lot of baits out of their mouth and lost quite a few when they came to the top to throw it. Since I switched to a softer rod with a moderate action (Shimano TC4 reaction/crank series blank) the fish stay pinned with the forgiveness of the rod. Really makes a difference. I also use either mono or softer/stretchier fluoro (InvizX) when cranking or jerkbaiting.

[fishinwrench]

Ok, take a fast action rod with 12# line on it, then take your slow parabolic rod with the same line on it and secure both rod butts..... Now pull out 30 feet of line, pull the slack out, then pull 12-15 inches against the rod and tell me that you can measure a difference.

If you "think" you can then consider throwing wrist movement into the mix.  

I think your brain is playing tricks on you.

If you claim that you can CAST a crankbait better with a slow parabolic rod.... I'll buy that.  But this hogwash about how much better a fish gets hooked because of a slow rod....Noway, I Just can't convince myself to believe in that. Clunn and Fritts should have their nuts kicked up between their shoulder blades for even starting that rediculisness.

[abkeenan]

17 minutes ago, fishinwrench said:

Ok, take a fast action rod with 12# line on it, then take your slow parabolic rod with the same line on it and secure both rod butts..... Now pull out 30 feet of line, pull the slack out, then pull 12-15 inches against the rod and tell me that you can measure a difference.

If you "think" you can then consider throwing wrist movement into the mix.  

I think your brain is playing tricks on you.

If you claim that you can CAST a crankbait better with a slow parabolic rod.... I'll buy that.  But this hogwash about how much better a fish gets hooked because of a slow rod....Noway, I Just can't convince myself to believe in that. Clunn and Fritts should have their nuts kicked up between their shoulder blades for even starting that rediculisness.

Not sure about the "get hooked better" part. But I am telling you from experience that switching to a softer rod has improved KEEPING fish on the line. When they jump, shake their head and do everything in their power to get off that give in a soft rod is like a shock absorber and maintains an even pressure (drag set accordingly also). With a faster action rod the rod want's to pull back quicker and snap back straight. It will cause you to lose more fish than with a softer rod. To each their own but I have used both and I choose the softer rod with treble baits. 

And yes, another bonus of a soft rod with a moderate tip is the loading of the rod when casting the bait. Improves distance with less effort.

[fishinwrench]

In Clunn and Fritts defense, it isn't their fault.   That's what happens when you are constantly put in a position to say something when you really don't have anything worthwhile to say.

 

As for your "slow rod better during the fight" scenario....How do you get around the science that a fast rod (one that recovers from a bend faster) doesn't keep the slack out better during a jump & shake ?   Just curious.

[Mitch f]

The amount of pressure you put in a fish should be determined by the size of the hook you're using, and the line diameter/strength. Even if you could throw it, Who would use a Med Heavy fast tip rod with a beetle spin? Trebles are just smaller hooks and don't need all that pressure.