Champ188 Posted January 20, 2018 Posted January 20, 2018 Wonderful looking bait. Ought to be deadly. Lvn2Fish 1
Basfis Posted February 1, 2018 Posted February 1, 2018 I have enough painting stuff I need to get better at it. I’m struggling to get shades I like with Createx, especially greens and to an extent blues. I’ve pitched more “blends” than I’d like to admit Am I peeing in the wind to use apple barrel or whatever Michael’s or Wally World carries for greens?I know it’s crazy thick and thinning will be key. Is the pigment particle size really too big to shoot reliably? .3mm gravity fed. I could re configure to shoot 30+ and have been playing around thinned to shoot 10-20 psi.
Guest Posted February 1, 2018 Posted February 1, 2018 I've been having all sorts of fits with the Auto-Air Flair color shift paints. 4412 Flair Teal Purple It clogs the brush because it doesn't like being thinned with the "high performance reducer" So I have to spray it chunky without reducer. Then it clogs the air brush if I dont run cleaner thru it immediately. That stuff has ruined 2 iwata gravity feeds. It cant get sprayed with 3mm either. I had to buy a separate 5mm iwata for that. The other problem involved orange peeling the Etex clear coat so I had to revert back to D2T to reduce the orange peel effect.
Flysmallie Posted February 1, 2018 Posted February 1, 2018 10 hours ago, TrophyFishR said: I've been having all sorts of fits with the Auto-Air Flair color shift paints. 4412 Flair Teal Purple It clogs the brush because it doesn't like being thinned with the "high performance reducer" So I have to spray it chunky without reducer. Then it clogs the air brush if I dont run cleaner thru it immediately. That stuff has ruined 2 iwata gravity feeds. It cant get sprayed with 3mm either. I had to buy a separate 5mm iwata for that. The other problem involved orange peeling the Etex clear coat so I had to revert back to D2T to reduce the orange peel effect. Your tip sizes are so small that you are going to have a hard time spraying these things. You can't make it thin enough to atomize properly with those tip sizes. Well without reducing it to the point that it's mostly reducer. And the pearls in the 4412 are going to make it worse. I really need to go into business selling you guys small quantities of good products that won't give you fits. Could probably make just about any color you wanted too. I'm not hammering on you TrophyFishR. Just hate to see people struggle with the limits of some products. dtrs5kprs 1
Flysmallie Posted February 1, 2018 Posted February 1, 2018 13 minutes ago, TrophyFishR said: I’m going off the instructions on the bottle. Oh I know but their information has never been the best on their products and misleading in some cases. But they aren't the only coatings company with that issue. Here is the reduction info from the application guide. Flair is going to fall into Pearls, Aluminums, Metallics. And it says that it's not recommended here. It's a combination of small tip sizes and low pressure. A bigger tip is going to give better results. And remember you are going to get a lot more dramatic effect from Flair if you are going over a dark base. If it's a light base it will not have much effect at all. It's just a characteristic for that type of pigment. dtrs5kprs 1
Guest Posted February 1, 2018 Posted February 1, 2018 okay, which airbrush or mini gun do you suggest?
Flysmallie Posted February 1, 2018 Posted February 1, 2018 It's not an airbrush issue. It's a viscosity thing. No matter what equipment you are using you have to find the viscosity that performs best with that equipment while also staying within the viscosity reduction guidelines for that product. Sometimes certain products are just not going to work well for an airbrush. And there are so many variables. -air pressure -nozzle size -viscosity All of those are going to change the way a product sprays. And sometimes it's the way you spray that creates problems. Different equipment with the same setup isn't going to change anything. It might if you were using junk equipment but Iwata is anything but junk. And it shouldn't have "ruined" anything. Those brushes are still fine just need a little TLC. dtrs5kprs 1
Guest Posted February 1, 2018 Posted February 1, 2018 The iwata revolution that I’m using is .5mm, so I thought you were saying it’s too small. I did reduce it last week but something like 50%. Which caused the paint to “melt” off the lure like butter. Next time, I will be more precise with the reducer. Also, I’m spraying at 40 psi.
Flysmallie Posted February 1, 2018 Posted February 1, 2018 15 minutes ago, TrophyFishR said: The iwata revolution that I’m using is .5mm, so I thought you were saying it’s too small. I did reduce it last week but something like 50%. Which caused the paint to “melt” off the lure like butter. Next time, I will be more precise with the reducer. Also, I’m spraying at 40 psi. .5mm can be too small but it might not be. You have to get some precision in the reduction before you can say for sure. And that PSI seems really high. I use a different brand of brush but it's rarely over 15lbs. You need to take some time and see how viscosity and air pressure affect what you are spraying. If you can get that dialed in then you can determine if .5 is enough. The coatings I use are about the viscosity of water. Very thin so they spray well through it but I'm using a .8mm nozzle. And that's mostly because of the metallics and the clear. At 50% reduction though you have it so transparent that you are trying to pile it on to get coverage. And probably not letting it flash long enough between coats. And at 40 PSI it's really blowing it through there. Reduce it 10%, cut back on the pressure, and see how it goes. Then you can adjust your pressure and your reduction to get something acceptable.
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