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Posted

As a custom rod builder, I know a little bit about blanks. If those blanks were in compromised in any way they could fail. If , during manufacture , they were scribed by a sharp instrument by trimming cork, a winding check, a thread wrap or just a means of marking, the blank is totally compromised at that point. I have no idea where they were made, China? There's person on the assembly line that needs some training. That would be my best guess.

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Posted
On ‎1‎/‎25‎/‎2016 at 2:02 PM, 5bites said:

Seems like the first gen carbonlites had the same issue. I don't remember for sure but I think it was the winding check in front of the seat causing the damage and of course that's where the break would happen. My guess is they were to snug on the blank. 

Most winding checks on store bought rods are rubber. Wouldn't be an issue when the rod loads and goes oblong. The rubber will stretch with the deformity of the rod. I happen to use metal winding checks as I believe that it just adds a little more class to the rod, however, I oversize them to avoid the potential "pinch".

Posted

Rodmaker, thank you so much for the insite.    We are very fortunate here to have so many folks that know so much about the topics that are of concern to us.  I never really thought about the process the rod goes thru to load and unload and the amount of action within the rod.  I, like most of us usually just think round is round, but I can see that it would change the dynamics in interior shape with the force on it.  I bet there is a slow mo video somewhere.

Posted
13 hours ago, Rodmaker said:

As a custom rod builder, I know a little bit about blanks. If those blanks were in compromised in any way they could fail. If , during manufacture , they were scribed by a sharp instrument by trimming cork, a winding check, a thread wrap or just a means of marking, the blank is totally compromised at that point. I have no idea where they were made, China? There's person on the assembly line that needs some training. That would be my best guess.

 

Good insight! I bet you could study the rod and determine quickly if it was caused by an etch.

"Honor is a man's gift to himself" Rob Roy McGregor

Posted
On 1/25/2016 at 11:37 AM, Bill Babler said:

Back in the early 2000's when I was guiding float trips in Alaska, we always would tell folks, please don't bring those Loomis fly rods. 

In and out of boats all day and fighting big fish while getting lazy are the demise of any quality rod.  You can see it a mile off.  First several Silver Salmon they catch are great.  By the time they get to the 10th. or 15th. big salmon you will see that right hand start creeping up the rod, with the butt of the rod being jammed into their belly.  Bout the time that right hand reaches the first eye of the rod and you are leaning back on a big Bull Silver that weighs 15 pounds and he burns a run downstream, that rod breaks right where your right hand is holding it.

Point, if your going to Alaska to fish salmon, leave the good stuff here and take a bigger less expensive gun.

I watched a guide do the same with an Orvis rod trying to muscle in a fresh river run coho.  My moto since that time was ALWAYS keep your hands on the cork no matter how much your arms are burning. 

Posted
37 minutes ago, holleybob said:

I watched a guide do the same with an Orvis rod trying to muscle in a fresh river run coho.  My moto since that time was ALWAYS keep your hands on the cork no matter how much your arms are burning. 

I watch a lot of youtubes of fishing (especially during winter months) and see so many guys boat flip fish and put their hand further up the rod towards the tip. It's natural to do it I suppose but I always think to myself that rod isn't going to last long doing that. When you put your hand on the last 1/3rd of the rod and flippem' in the boat that is like using an ice fishing rod to sling them in the boat....prolly not a good idea.

Posted

If damage to the blanks occurred along the assembly line, sounds like training and quality control could be lacking.

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