Turd Polishing

[MrGiggles]

6 hours ago, fishinwrench said:

I'm glad you asked that because it shows that you have studied and are doing your best to do excellent work.  👏

So now I'm gonna piss you off and tell you what I do (and this ain't by the book).  A long time ago I spent good money with the Snap-On man because I thought I needed a precise dial indicator and a variety of attaching hardware.....but I haven't touched it in years.   If your flywheel is simply marked ZERO then set that #1 at zero with a kabob stick.   If your flywheel is marked .472 (or some other rediculous measurement) then roll the crank over clockwise until you just begin to feel the rod kick over just barely noticably and set your pointer on that .472 (or whatever the hell it is) and you'll be fine.

Set your spec timing static at cranking speed and then retard it by 2° and lock it down.     Double check it after locking it down and moving things around a bit.... and if you're still there you're perfect. Never touch it again.   

I screwed around with it a little more tonight before hitting the water.

It does have .464 stamped on the flywheel. From what I understand, those numbers are only relevant to older motors that do not have a master spline, and mine does.

The pointer is dead nuts on 0* when #1 is at TDC. I got it down to 23*, but the screw is bottomed out. The service manual says 23* is right, but there are also more timing marks after 23* that have MAX TIMING stamped above them, which is about where it was set before I messed with it. Do you know what the timing spec is on these triples?

It runs well but seems a little low on WOT RPM. It maxes out at 5000, and with this prop it should be closer to 6000, unless my tach is lying.

That motor looks about like the powerhead on my parts engine. Dunno what happened, but it must have made some noise when it let loose.

[fishinwrench]

That motor was sunk and it blew itself apart hydraulically.

No difference between master splines and keys as far as ignition timing goes. I will need all the identification info you can give me on it to look up the specs (Year, HP, Serial# off the mount, and the number off the aluminum block plug if it is different from the Serial# on the mount) 

If your max timing stop screw is completely bottomed out then something isn't right.   Is there a sticker on the airbox that has Max Timing on it?

[MrGiggles]

Well now I feel like a dummy. It was right there the whole time. Just goes to show that some of these Seloc manuals aren't worth crap.

This is the flywheel. Right now it is set right on 23*. Things are making a little more sense now, the screw should be within normal range at 29*, or 27 like you said.

Is there a reason why they recommend setting the throttle to that secondary pickup area? Seems to me that it would make no difference, the timing advance arm is against the stop in both positions.

Thanks again for the help Wrench.

[fishinwrench]

2 hours ago, MrGiggles said:

 

Is there a reason why they recommend setting the throttle to that secondary pickup area? Seems to me that it would make no difference, the timing advance arm is against the stop in both positions.

The idea behind "throttle pickup timing" is that the trigger should be advancing as the carb(s) jumps from the low speed orifice to the high speed jet(s)......So that you have a fairly smooth acceleration curve from idle to WOT. 

If throttle pickup timing is off then what you have is a motor that kinda bogs or has a dead spot....then suddenly jumps to life at about 1/2-3/4 throttle.   You'll never get it perfect with an inline 2-3-4 cylinder motor, but on V4's and V6's it should accelerate really smooth all the way.

You can tinker with your throttle pickup timing to get the best hole shot, it won't hurt anything.   Just make sure that when you're throttled down the valve plates are fully closed....and when at WOT they are fully opened.

[MrGiggles]

Transom time. It's been getting soft, and the mess of wiring and sludge in the bilge area has been bugging me. The power trim unit needs resealing too.

 

[MrGiggles]

Loaned my hoist and haven't gotten it back, so I had to make do with a floor jack. It's off though.

[Gumboot]

Very impressive work Mrgiggles.  For every one of you there multiples of me, that keep Wrench in business.

Wrench, once it warms up I'll be dropping off my Nissan 25 with the bent prop shaft.  That my boy, who is the only one to run that motor over last two years, has no clue what happened to it.

[MrGiggles]

Got her to give it up. The way this boat is designed makes it very difficult to get to the nuts under the rear deck.

It was definitely due. 

[MrGiggles]

Brought home another turd last night. Unfortunately this one is too far gone, but if I can get the Suzuki running, it's going on the Tracker, and the old Merc will get sold.

[MrGiggles]

Haven't done much. Got the transom board glued together and cut. Still need to seal it.

Will need a warm day to repaint the transom and splashwell, unfortunately that looks like a long ways off.

Got some fresh gas in the Suzuki and drained the carbs, it started right up. Waiting on a water pump, will be able to do more when it arrives.

Cleaned all the grime out of the bilge from that stupid Merc PTT pump.