doodle fishing

[Flysmallie]

5 hours ago, merc1997 said:

why am i the only one that does not seem to have a big issue with fraying with braid??? 

 

 

I don't. I fish a ned rig on the rivers a lot and tie straight to braid. Even in the clearest streams that Missouri has to offer fish continue to hit it. 

[Guest]

11 hours ago, snagged in outlet 3 said:

What brand braid?   If you don’t mind.  

actually, i am using some braid that i bought off ali-express.  it is called spectra extreme braid.  and 1000M spool is 15.50.  i get their hi-vis yellow because is will illuminate in a black light.  the spider wire stealth braid also works well, but of course is a lot higher in price when 1500 yds. costs $120.00.

bo

[Guest]

7 hours ago, Flysmallie said:

 

I don't. I fish a ned rig on the rivers a lot and tie straight to braid. Even in the clearest streams that Missouri has to offer fish continue to hit it. 

i use the hi-vis yellow in the creek also.  i even tried it out at the trout park just to see if it prevented me from catching trout.  it did not.  so, i am with you.  just don't see that it is diminishing the bites.  and, i started out fishing with the old dacron braid way back before mono became the "line to use".

bo

[Guest]

10 hours ago, Bill Babler said:

As far as jerk bait fishing there are lots of different belief's.  Mike does not like the carbon because it sinks and particularly sinks the nose of the bait, pulling it nose down.  Most ardent stick bait fishermen want the bait to fall either slightly tail down or slowly sink or suspend in a horizontal attitude.

Buster Loving one of the best in the business that is not on the Pro tour, likes carbon and likes it to sink the bait.  He counter balances it to take away some of the nose down attitude.  I cannot really tell a ton of difference in either as I weight my baits pretty heavy.

I have also fished all the popular braids along with nanofil and have not liked any of them.  They catch around rod eyes both micro and regular, they suck down in the reel and just like Quill that durn stuff breaks and frays on me something terrible.  The breaking is on the cast, not so much playing a fish as the  reels I use have really quality drag systems.

I currently use it for a couple of things, a frog or any topwater.  I'm about to give that up also as at times the topwater rear hook on the cast will penetrate the braid causing another mess to deal with. If your throwing a propped top water and it gets around the prop, lordy your in trouble.  I have and so have others totally quit using it on A-rigs as it sucks down so bad in the reel.  Catching a fish or hanging up is a total nightmare with the stuff as it will pull down thru a 1/2 dozen line wraps on the bait caster.  Seems to fish a bit better on a spinning rod, but I just don't like it.

Ford/Chevy

learn the rules of braid and you will get along with it fine.  don't learns those rules and you will cuss it.  breaking on a cast means two things.  one is reel adjustment.  two is what you use for backing before you put your braid on the spool.  the smoother the backing surface is the better casting performance, and the less digging.  i set the hook as hard or harder than most folks on the planet, and i have very little issues with digging anymore.

as you say ford/chevy, but most folks issues are self inflicted a lot of times.

bo

[dblades]

9 hours ago, merc1997 said:

learn the rules of braid and you will get along with it fine.  don't learns those rules and you will cuss it.  breaking on a cast means two things.  one is reel adjustment.  two is what you use for backing before you put your braid on the spool.  the smoother the backing surface is the better casting performance, and the less digging.  i set the hook as hard or harder than most folks on the planet, and i have very little issues with digging anymore.

as you say ford/chevy, but most folks issues are self inflicted a lot of times.

bo

Pretty much the same as fluorocarbon,, don't treat it like mono and you'll have way less problems.

[Mitch f]

Yea I really don’t like braid on a bait caster but it’s all what you’re used to. I suppose if I made up my mind to learn it well it would be different. I think it’s great for topwater by the way. Just fish what you have confidence in.
I have read several posts of people who hate 100% fluorocarbon as well...and I gave up on it too a few years ago, but I made up my mind to learn it and I probably  will never go back to mono, except for maybe topwater applications. So Bo is right about taking the time to learn it and trust it. 
so many choices, so little time! 

[top_dollar]

      I'm a mono guy all day with a jerkbait.  Nose down is fine, but I'm convinced I'll get more bites with that bait sitting as horizontal as possible, so I weight it that way.  A 5'6"-6' med heavy  fast rod with 8-17# mono gives you the best all around jerkbait action in my opinion.  If you use a stiff rod with braided line your jerkbait will dart back and forth like crazy and you'll get lots of bites, but hooks will pull out with bigger fish.  Too soft of a rod and you won't get good action on the jerkbait.  The semi-stiff rod and mono gives me the best action while keeping all the fish buttoned up. 

 

      Braid has its advantages, I doubt too many guys are flipping heavy cover at table rock, but 65# braid is the way to go tossing jigs/worms and frogs around swampy areas.  When I'm tossing a weightless wacky worm, high vis braid is the way to go so you can see the line move,  I do use a 10-15# FC leader though.  Also anytime you're throwing a small single hooked bait a really long way, the braid will allow you to set a hook better if the fish bites it 100 feet away.  Although anymore, the jigs I pour use owner needlepoint hooks, which arent letting go no matter what. So I use a med light spinning rod with 6#fc, or even a light power spinning rod with 4# mono. Another huge braid advantage is trolling crankbaits.  I love to troll with 9ft downrigger rods spooled with 15# metered braid.  The thin diameter allows maximum depth. The lack of stretch gives you good hookups 200feet behind the boat, and the metered braid allows for perfect distance management.  The 9ft parabolic downrigger rod gives you the cushion needed to not pull out hooks

       I tend to agree with the thought process though that if the fish doesn't care about the hook, split rings, and plastic bill it probably doesn't care about the line either.  They are pretty dumb animals.  That said, the line can certainly affect the action, depth, and rate of fall of a bait so it certainly does matter.

[Bill Babler]

As far as breaking on the cast I have no idea how reel adjustment plays a part on a spinning reel as it is completely open spool.  As far as the bait caster it is as close to free spool as I can get it, so there is no drag on either the line or bait going out.  Reel adjustment is not the problem as i for sure break more off on a spinning reel with braid.  

Very seldom if ever break it on a hook set, but really I don't set a hook hard at all and just about never have one come off once he or she is hooked.

Perhaps on the digging I'm putting to much braid on the reel in front of the backing.  To tell you the truth I have not considered the backing at all.  I use it to keep the braid from continuing to move around the spool.  That, I do not believe would give any reason to fray or snap at the bait.or just above.  Perhaps its my knot as far as breaking but I have had it break and fray regardless of the knot I'm tying and to tell the truth, most of the time it is a few inches above the knot

Glad it works for you, continued success

[top_dollar]

37 minutes ago, Mitch f said:

Yea I really don’t like braid on a bait caster but it’s all what you’re used to. I suppose if I made up my mind to learn it well it would be different. I think it’s great for topwater by the way. Just fish what you have confidence in.
I have read several posts of people who hate 100% fluorocarbon as well...and I gave up on it too a few years ago, but I made up my mind to learn it and I probably  will never go back to mono, except for maybe topwater applications. So Bo is right about taking the time to learn it and trust it. 
so many choices, so little time! 

The stretch and the float of mono make it useful for me with a jerkbait.  Also when crappie fishing 2-4# mono cannot be beat.  You simply cant cast a 64th oz jig without the right rod/reel/line setup and part of that is 2# mono.  The best I have found is that trout magnet S.O.S.  the 4# trout magnet line will bend out a #4 owner light wire hook, and it's super thin and very manageable. 

 

[top_dollar]

7 minutes ago, top_dollar said:

      I'm a mono guy all day with a jerkbait.  Nose down is fine, but I'm convinced I'll get more bites with that bait sitting as horizontal as possible, so I weight it that way.  A 5'6"-6' med heavy  fast rod with 8-17# mono gives you the best all around jerkbait action in my opinion.  If you use a stiff rod with braided line your jerkbait will dart back and forth like crazy and you'll get lots of bites, but hooks will pull out with bigger fish.  Too soft of a rod and you won't get good action on the jerkbait.  The semi-stiff rod and mono gives me the best action while keeping all the fish buttoned up. 

 

      Braid has its advantages, I doubt too many guys are flipping heavy cover at table rock, but 65# braid is the way to go tossing jigs/worms and frogs around swampy areas.  When I'm tossing a weightless wacky worm, high vis braid is the way to go so you can see the line move,  I do use a 10-15# FC leader though.  Also anytime you're throwing a small single hooked bait a really long way, the braid will allow you to set a hook better if the fish bites it 100 feet away.  Although anymore, the jigs I pour use owner needlepoint hooks, which arent letting go no matter what. So I use a med light spinning rod with 6#fc, or even a light power spinning rod with 4# mono.  Another huge braid advantage is trolling crankbaits.  I love to troll with 9ft downrigger rods spooled with 15# metered braid.  The thin diameter allows maximum depth. The lack of stretch gives you good hookups 200feet behind the boat, and the metered braid allows for perfect distance management.  The 9ft parabolic downrigger rod gives you the cushion needed to not pull out hooks.

       I tend to agree with the thought process though that if the fish doesn't care about the hook, split rings, and plastic bill it probably doesn't care about the line either.  They are pretty dumb animals.  That said, the line can certainly affect the action, depth, and rate of fall of a bait so it certainly does matter.  I also think that because every line has advantages and disadvantages folks are limiting themselves by only using what they are used to.  Learn them all and their limitations.