Boat flooring

[DADAKOTA]

A fella couldn't get a word in edgewise with Doug and Wrench in the boat.  Heck, not sure Wrench will get many words in. 😀

[fishinwrench]

24 minutes ago, DADAKOTA said:

A fella couldn't get a word in edgewise with Doug and Wrench in the boat.  Heck, not sure Wrench will get many words in. 😀

I have a feeling that once you're about 6 fish up on him, he'll quit running his mouth and get serious.  😂

[DADAKOTA]

Negative Ghost Rider.  Fish count won't matter.

[dan hufferd]

On 5/15/2021 at 11:52 AM, MrGiggles said:

The thing with plastic is that it's not very rigid or temperature stable. You may find that it needs much less span between supports, and may buckle in the summer from heat expansion. Although if that stuff is truly designed to be a plywood equivalent, perhaps they have engineered them to not have those problems.

Marine plywood is no different than exterior ACX or whatever, but it has no voids and may have more plies. ACX will work just fine if you coat it.

Carpet is easy to apply, forgiving, cheap, and easy to find. Marine vinyl is a much better looking product that's easy to clean, but has none of those qualities.

In all reality it makes no sense to do anything but plywood at this point. My boat is a 2004 and I am just now considering replacing the floor and carpet. If the next application lasts this long I will be happy.

 

[MrGiggles]

6 minutes ago, dan hufferd said:

In all really it makes no sense to do anything but plywood at this point. My boat is a 2004 and I am just now considering replacing the floor and carpet. If the next application lasts this long I will be happy.

 

That seems to be the consensus among most boat building forums. It just works, and if you take the time to seal it, can last for a really long time.

[DADAKOTA]

Currently using a wood frame and plywood deck installed in 2001.  Treated the plywood but some areas have separated and started to rot.  95% of the framing still good.  Trying to figure out if an aluminum deck and framing is worth the effort.  I don't weld so I have to figure out how to connect the aluminum square tubing to make the frame.  I've seen plastic elbows and T's on line for tubing but have no idea on the durability.  Plywood compartment lids were east to make, hinge, and install but are coming apart where the screws went into the laminated layers.  Would have to figure out a way to frame an aluminum lid or just buy lids.  Anyone with experience going to all aluminum?

[fishinwrench]

1 hour ago, DADAKOTA said:

I don't weld so I have to figure out how to connect the aluminum square tubing to make the frame

Jon boats NEED to flex a bit.  Anything welded is likely to crack and break. 3/16 Rivets are the way to go. Rivet placement requires a bit of thought, but properly placed rivets (with backing washers if possible) do a way better job.

[DADAKOTA]

Hey Wrench - Would you use 3/4 inch square tubing?  How long a span can I go without using vertical supports?  Planning on using 1/8 inch aluminum sheet for the floor.

[fishinwrench]

1 hour ago, DADAKOTA said:

Hey Wrench - Would you use 3/4 inch square tubing?  How long a span can I go without using vertical supports?  Planning on using 1/8 inch aluminum sheet for the floor.

I try to use 2" angle so that I can use backing washers.   You can't get inside the tubing to put washers on.

You can back-to-back 2 sections of angle if you need more rigidity.

[fishinwrench]

If you wanna post a pic of the stripped hull, and kinda describe what you want the layout to be I can whip up a sketch of how I would do it......if that will help.

Sometimes you can frame with an aluminum step ladder.   That works extremely well if you lack room for vertical supports.   A ladder frame will support a ton of weight.