Help with canoe patch

[Hawg]

1 hour ago, Flysmallie said:

I’ve repaired some holes but it’s been with a special product from 3M that requires an expensive applicator gun. 
 

Ive been part of the process of adding the Kevlar strips. The glue included with them works well. That’s why I would use it without repairing the hole. If the Kevlar strips are wide enough to cover the hole then you will be good. You’ll basically be fixing the hole with the Kevlar. 

The issue you have with any product is adhesion and flexibility. Something like fiberglass has none of that. And once it comes loose, and it will eventually, the Kevlar strip will come loose too. 
 

It’s really no different than repairing a car bumper. You can’t  treat them the same way you treat metal or fiberglass. It just doesn’t work. And I have about 35 years of experience in that. 

Ok. Thanks.

I was concerned about the void left  by the missing layers so I figured I should fill it to the same depth and shape as it was originally before I place the Kevlar sheet.

If I go over it without filling it, I was a bit concerned that the edge/rim of the hole I’m covering would be a wear point if there is a dip in the final layer.

[Flysmallie]

1 hour ago, Hawg said:

Ok. Thanks.

I was concerned about the void left  by the missing layers so I figured I should fill it to the same depth and shape as it was originally before I place the Kevlar sheet.

If I go over it without filling it, I was a bit concerned that the edge/rim of the hole I’m covering would be a wear point if there is a dip in the final layer.

That probably wouldn’t hurt. I’d use a fiberglass reinforced body filler and keep it confined to that hole. 

[ColdWaterFshr]

I've repaired my 12" long crack in my Royalex boat using the G-Flex epoxy.  Its held up well for several years and going strong.  I would glob that into the hole, let it dry well for a few days, sand it down so it is uniform with the rest of the hull, and then put a kevlar skid plate front and back.  Make sure you get the skid plate kit that is specifically for Royalex as it is different epoxy than the ABS/plastic kits.  Its probably the G-flex epoxy.

[Al Agnew]

Given how rough I am on my canoes, I've done quite a bit of repair work to Royalex.  The skid plate kits you buy for Royalex are pretty thick; they would fill in the hole fairly well, without any sharp edges.  You can also buy Kevlar cloth and G-Flex Epoxy instead of the kit if your worn area is bigger than the Kevlar skid plates.  For smaller repairs, I usually just fill in the worn area or gouge with plastic epoxy; it isn't the best repair but it will last years.  I've filled in gouges with JB Weld, but it's brittle enough that it doesn't work well for larger areas.

For the big worn hole that's down to the inner ABS foam layer in the canoe you just bought, it's important that the whole area is DRY before trying any sort of repair work.  Water seeps between the outer vinyl skin and the inner foam and soaks into the foam if the canoe is left out in the weather, so you need to bring it inside if possible or have it under a roof where it will never get wet for a while to get that area as dry as possible.

[Hawg]

23 hours ago, Al Agnew said:

Given how rough I am on my canoes, I've done quite a bit of repair work to Royalex.  The skid plate kits you buy for Royalex are pretty thick; they would fill in the hole fairly well, without any sharp edges.  You can also buy Kevlar cloth and G-Flex Epoxy instead of the kit if your worn area is bigger than the Kevlar skid plates.  For smaller repairs, I usually just fill in the worn area or gouge with plastic epoxy; it isn't the best repair but it will last years.  I've filled in gouges with JB Weld, but it's brittle enough that it doesn't work well for larger areas.

For the big worn hole that's down to the inner ABS foam layer in the canoe you just bought, it's important that the whole area is DRY before trying any sort of repair work.  Water seeps between the outer vinyl skin and the inner foam and soaks into the foam if the canoe is left out in the weather, so you need to bring it inside if possible or have it under a roof where it will never get wet for a while to get that area as dry as possible.

Good idea on drying it out first. I’ll put it in my garage with a dehumidifier for a while..

[grizwilson]

I have done several, G-Flex is the ticket for epoxy, West Marine has several videos, usually with shipping Jamestown Distributors is less expensive with shipping.  Depending on the size needed either Amazon or Ebay for kevlar felt, your appears large so will need a longer felt.  You will put a layer or two of gflex on the "wound" before laying down the felt it will take up the space.  I usually heat treat to open the pours so far no failures, some white water guys criticize kevlar for weight, 3-4 oz for years of wear...wears like iron with the gflex. Lots of good videos out there, I like putting plastic wrap over for a smooth finish, saves sanding.  I am a hack, so most anyone can do it.