Bucket List Item Checked Off Last Week

[MeatintheFreezer]

My family and I just returned from a dream come true trip to Alaska.

I truly enjoy reading the posts from members who write about their fishing vacations, so I have decied to make my attempt at it. This trip may not be some folks cup of tea, as I did not take a fly rod nor did I fish for trout. I figure that alone would knock me off the Christmas card list of 40% of this forum group. However, this trip had a specific purpose and plan, and it was perfect, even with all the curve balls that Murphy and Mother Nature can throw. The original plan was to drive down Monday, White water raft Tuesday, Salmon fish Wednesday, Halibut fish Thursday, drive back Friday.

To explain the underlying emotion and personal importance of this trip, I must first just back to last fall when my father passed away. As his health declined, he often talked about how he wished he could take one last trip to fish somewhere exotic. He knew he wasn't able to, but seemed to get enjoyment out of talking and dreaming about it. He had taken me as a kid to fly into Canada a few times, so we talked and daydreamed about going further north to Alaska. Within a few weeks of these conversations, he passed away. I made a vow the day we laid him to rest that I would do whatever it took to make that trip we had talked about that gave him so much enjoyment. Seven months later I made good on that promise I had made to myself, and to him.

We flew out of Kansas City Airport Sunday evening around 5pm, with a brief layover in Salt Lake City, then landed in Anchorage around midnight their time. We took a shuttle to a local hotel and crashed for the night. The first thing that was notable as we walked out of the airport was that it was still fairly daylight outside. During this time of year, there is around 21 hours of daylight. The other 3 hours are not dark as we call it, it is more like dusk, just like it is here 20 minutes after sunset.

Monday morning, 6am came pretty fast, but we were excited to get going. We picked up the rental car and headed south toward Seward, our home for few days. The drive takes locals around 2-1/2 hours, but we stopped at every pull off along the way to take pictures od the beautiful scenery. I had read that this is considered one of the most scenic drives in North America, and I beleive now. The first half of the trip follows directly along the edge of the Turnagain Arm of Cook Inlet with stunning views of thesnow capped mountains on the other side. The second half climbs up through those same mountains then finally spills off a virtual rain forest called Seward. a few miles outside of town, we quickly found our lodging we had reserved months back. We had search online for something affordable and unique, and found it with Sourdough Sue's Bear Lake Yurts. A yurt is sort of a cross between a circuis tent and a cabin, and Sue is the most friendly person you can imagine. A welcome sign with our name was hanging on the front door and a fresh loaf of banana/blueberry bread waiting on the kitchen counter. We unpacked and settled in for the evening. I made a phone call back up the mountain to Hope, where we were planning to white water raft the next morning, only to find out that rafting trips were cancelled for the next two days due to dangerously high water flow. I resceduled for Friday, our only other free day.

Tuesday, now completely open due to the rafting reschedule, became a day to explore the area. We made our way up Resurection Creek to the base of Exit Glacier. The creek, which is actually a substantial river, is 100% glacier melt run off. We decided to take the 3 mile round trip hike up to the face of the glacier, which was very much worth it. In addition to the amazing views, I was impressed with the strong winds blowing down the the mountain over the face of the glacier. After some reading, I learned that the "wind" was actually the cold air from the glacier rushing down below the warmer surrounding air, which I thought was neat to learn about.

Wednesday finally came, and it was time to fish. We met up with the guide, Jr., who was highly reccommended by virutally everyone online and in town. His was a grizzly looking guy, but was again very kind and outgoing. He took us out the point of an inlet where 4 creeks spilled into the salt water. This is a staging point for salmon as they begin their spawning migration. We were on the hunt for sockeye salmon, but not in the conventional way you might think, we were snagging them! This sounds unsporting or unfair, and on certain occasions it might be, but after 10 solid hours of snagging non stop we had 4 fish in the 6-8 pound range. It was hard work, but a lot fo fun. With the mountains in every direction, bald eagles within a stone's throw, and the salt air, I didn't care if we caught a fish or not. Jr. filleted our catch, and offered us a few thin slices of belly meat for some beach sushi, which was absolutely delicious.

While we were watching him fillet our fish, I got a phone call from our halibut outfitter. They said that tomorrow's trip (Thursday) was cancelled due to 18' seas expected. they told me that they had a few spots left on Friday's boat and I had first shot at them if I wanted them. I reserved the seats. As I hung up I remembered that the day before I had moved the white water rafting trip to Friday as well. CRAP! Now I have two awesome things to do on the same day, and both of them could still be postponed due to weather. I thought about dad, and his desire to fish Alaskain waters, and made the decision. I called the rafting company and cancelled the trip so we could halibut fish Friday...... if the weather cooperates. Jr., overhearing my phone conversations, made me an outstanding offer. He said he felt bad that we didn't catch more salmon, and that our halibut trip for tomorrow was postponed, he said he would let us tag along on a king salmon trip tomorrow for free if we wanted! Um, YEAH, I think I do!

I supposed I should mention at this point that it has not stopped raining since the day we drive into town. Not ever a downpour, but just steady, cold rain. Every day struggled to reach 50 degrees, with the nights dipping down into the low 40's. Honestly, I wouldn't have changed it if I could have. It added to the experience, it wouldn't seem like Alaska if it were sunny and warm.

Thursday's King salmon trip was a giant goose egg, but still a wonderful experience. Jr tried everything he could think of, but it just wasn't happening. We decided to call it a day and head backinto town to do some shopping and sight seeing. I got a call from the Crackerjack, our halibut outfitter, and good news! Looks like the weather is coming down so the trip is a go for tomorrow. Time to head back to the yurt for some more grilled fresh sockeye and hit the hay.

Friday 4am, its full daylight outside. Nearly impossible to sleep (as much from excitement as the constant daylight). We packed everything up in the car (remember, we were planning on spending the day driving back to Anchorage). Arived at the dock in plenty of time to grab some breakfast and some much needed coffee, and chat with the other fisherman as they arrived to check in. By 6:30, we were on the boat going over the safety regulations and the plan for the day. It is 46 degrees and raining harder than it has all week. The captain said it was going to be rough, maybe to rough. He said we would run out and take a look, then make the finaly decision. My heart sank. I thought we were a go, but now it is still in question? The next hour was filled with a lot of anxiety and apprehension, until the captain finally told us we were going to give it a shot. Now my thoughts shifted to how bad it is going to be, if it was so close to a cancellation. Two people were already sea sick, and each wave seemed to be bigger than the last and we made our way around the point into seemingly open water. I guessed the waves to be 10-12 foot, but they were very inconsistent, confused waves, which made things even more difficult. My coffee made countless attempts to slide aggressively off the table, anything that wasn't strapped down was already on the floor. Before long, the diesel motors idled down and I knew we were at the spot. I was the first out on the deck, with my son on my heels. We had tucked in behind an island, which sheltered us from the worst of the wave, although it was still "pretty rough" as the captian put it. We dropped our lines in the 263 foot deep water, with 3 pounds of lead tied to the end. Those of us who were not puking began catching fish pretty quickly. Rock fish, several types of cod, and way to many dogfish (trash fish). All of them were serious work to reel up along with the lead weigh and the combursome rod, don't forget the boat tossing back and forth on the waves. Both my arms were gassed within an hour (5 or 6 fish), then came the halibut. My rod tip bounced a few times and I could tell that this bite was different. Soon the rod bent sharply and the deck hand yelled, "HALIBUT!!". I grabbed the rod from the holder and felt the full weight of the fish, I knew this was going to be work. I could barely turn the reel handle, I tried to pump the rod, but it just peeled drag. The deck hand flipped the gear swith on the reel, which helped considerably. Finally the fish began to move up toward the boat. Pump & reel, pump & reel, repeat for 263 feet. After what seemed to be an eternity, we began to see color. It was big, but not giant. The deck hands were pros, the boths gaffed it and drug it in. About 75-80 pound they said, which was all I wanted at that point. I couldn't imagine what a 200 pounder would feel like. The rest of the day went just like that. I got to watch my son catch his, which was a little bigger than mine. He handled it better than I did! He lost one about half way up that seemed notably bigger than anything we landed, but it got off before we ever got to see it. We were allowed to keep one of any size, and one less than 29". We both managed to catch one just barely under the 29" slot, so it worked out great. One of the best days I have had on this earth. With my son - my best friend beside me, and the memory of my dad in my heart. I spent the boat ride back to the harbor glancing over at my son, who was fighting off falling asleep, and reflecting about how much dad would have loved this trip.

That night we drove back to Anchorage, and spent the better part of Saturday flying / driving back home. I am glad to be back home, but I am already planning a return trip.

Below are a few pics of the trip.

[MeatintheFreezer]

This is a picture of sockeye salmon in a tiny stream right behind our yurt. Fishing is not allowed in this section until after 6/11....

[jdmidwest]

I want to go back in the dead of winter just to see what snow is really like sometime.

I think I could have enjoyed my 2 trips just on the scenery and experience alone. It is a wonderful area.

[trythisonemv]

Awesome! That's on my list for sure.

[Terrierman]

Excellent. Congratulations. Alaska will be my second big trip after retirement.

[kjackson]

That sounds like a great trip--glad you had fun. I've been in Alaska half a dozen times and would go back in a heartbeat. If you'd hit good weather on your halibut trip, you would have been fishing in 500 feet of water.

Andy Mesirow of Crackerjack Charters is as good a skipper as you'll find. However, most of the serious professionals will give you your money's worth. Mesirow does overnight charters so that you get to fish in an area where most charters don't go. Those are a hoot!

[JestersHK]

Awesome trip! Also on my bucket list. Thanks for sharing, loved the story.

[ollie]

Great story and thanks for sharing.

[MeatintheFreezer]

I agree that Andy and his crew are very good. I would recommend them to anyone.

I am already planning another trip, and this time I will be looking into an overnight charter.

[Gavin]

Good for you! Been to several of the places you mentioned an it brings back some great memories! Alaskan weather always seems to be fickle, had many trips canxed due to weather. Sounds like a good trip and thanks for the report!