kjackson Posted July 6, 2017 Posted July 6, 2017 Jason-- You need to buckle down and get one of the new, yet-to-be-announced Shimano/G.Loomis rods. It will definitely put more fish in the boat. Granted, the series runs in the $650 range, but you need one.
J-Doc Posted July 6, 2017 Author Posted July 6, 2017 1 hour ago, kjackson said: Jason-- You need to buckle down and get one of the new, yet-to-be-announced Shimano/G.Loomis rods. It will definitely put more fish in the boat. Granted, the series runs in the $650 range, but you need one. Hahahahahahaa...................   NO sir. Need marine repair? Send our own forum friend "fishinwrench" a message. He will treat you like family!!! I owe fishinwrench a lot of thanks. He has been a great mechanic with lots of patience!
slothman Posted July 6, 2017 Posted July 6, 2017 For an inexpensive rod, I have been pretty happy with the Berkley Lightning Rod that I purchased this spring. I like it just about as much as the Lew's Mach 2 rod that I got for Christmas that cost more than twice as much.Â
Champ188 Posted July 6, 2017 Posted July 6, 2017 Wrench, you are right about quality and purpose. For cranks, topwaters and other fast-moving treble hook lures, you certainly don't want an IM10 rod with titanium guides, etc. Too sensitive. Not spongy enough and will result in lots of lost fish, not to mention pulling a lure away from fish. The exception FOR ME with moving baits is a spinnerbait (obviously not a treble hook lure) because I fish a quarter-ounce bait with small willows a lot and I like to feel every turn of the blades. Even then, though, I don't use a $500 G-Loomis. I used to throw a Duckett, but my favorite spinnerbait rod is now a Denali Kovert technique-specific spinnerbait stick that retails for under $150. Very, very good rod. I'm using the same make of rod in a 7-2 length with medium power-fast action (finesse jig technique) for my Wiggle Warts and other mid-size cranks. Works like a charm.Â
fishinwrench Posted July 6, 2017 Posted July 6, 2017 My shallow water spinnerbait fishing is usually visual, no need to feel every turn of the blade(s), casting accuracy with some muscle is the main goal. Â For deeper slow rolling I have a 7'2" Fenwick Elite Tech Med. that if I had to choose only one rod for all of my bass fishing it would be that one, because it does everything just fine. Â I've often considered just buying 3 more of those rods and rigging them with different line diameters. Â It will pitch jigs/worms, it will sling a C-rig, it will do square bills and lipless cranks, deep cranks, spinnerbaits, buzzbaits, Spooks, Frogs..... you name it. Â Pretty much an all purpose bass stick IMO. Champ188 1
Flysmallie Posted July 6, 2017 Posted July 6, 2017 And this is why there are so many different rods available and why one persons opinion of a rod doesn't mean squat to you. Mitch f, Daryk Campbell Sr, Champ188 and 3 others 6  Â
Mitch f Posted July 6, 2017 Posted July 6, 2017 1 hour ago, Flysmallie said: And this is why there are so many different rods available and why one persons opinion of a rod doesn't mean squat to you. Amen Old plug 1 "Honor is a man's gift to himself" Rob Roy McGregor
fishinwrench Posted July 6, 2017 Posted July 6, 2017 2 hours ago, Flysmallie said: And this is why there are so many different rods available. But they all have split grips 😟
Flysmallie Posted July 6, 2017 Posted July 6, 2017 10 minutes ago, fishinwrench said: But they all have split grips 😟  The ones I use don't  Â
Old plug Posted July 6, 2017 Posted July 6, 2017 when I buy a 7 ft rod Inwant to get as much length into the rod itself as I can. rods sold as 7 ft are for the most part only about 6 1/2 ft above the reel seat. These things with the split handle will be even shorter above above thag. .I just think a rod shoud be sold by the length above the reel seat.  I do not like the way the back part of the dual handle bumps mys arm when trying to cast it. Champ188 1
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