fishinwrench Posted August 15 Posted August 15 7 hours ago, tjm said: Lot's of people not trained as mechanics are smart enough to open the hatch and take deep breath or two before lighting up the boat. And I'd bet a doughnut hole that a bunch of technicians are dumb enough not to. Venting should be built in though, but if it's not $100 would go a long way towards a duct and a blower. Fuel vapors always linger down low in a bilge area. "Opening the hatch" on newly designed I/O boats requires activating an electric/hydraulic lift pump that is situated GUESS WHERE ? (Right under the hatch where all the vapor can accumulate). Any electric motor (hatch lift pump, starter, bilge pump, and yes A BLOWER MOTOR) .....are prone to creating a spark. And when fuel vapor is present a SPARK is all it takes to blow the whole SOB up. Whether the hatch is open or not. Since COVID I don't notice hints of leaky fuel smell like I used to. And I'm always extra careful because of that. In the area of a gas dock EVERYTHING, including the money you paid for your gas with, smells like fuel.....So not noticing fuel smell from down in the bilge area of your boat.....is understandable. So in essence, "VENTING " just spreads the vapor to a larger area and makes for a bigger explosion. snagged in outlet 3 1
snagged in outlet 3 Posted August 15 Posted August 15 7 hours ago, fishinwrench said: Straight inboards have a centrally located engine. The engine is housed separately from the battery and the fuel system, and there is no Tilt/Trim system, and steering is done via a mechanical rudder. So most boats I see are I/O except some of the water ski boats?
tjm Posted August 15 Posted August 15 It does sound like the newer boats are designed to explode. I would put the blower a duct work away from and outside of the compartment, pushing "fresh" air in ... but then I'd seperate the fuel tank from the engine compartment too, so I'm not smart enough to be a boat designer. 14 hours ago, fishinwrench said: So in essence, "VENTING " just spreads the vapor to a larger area and makes for a bigger explosion. So, how often do the fuel docks catch fire or explode? every boat there must have starters and pumps? I had thought that spreading the fumes out over much larger areas served to dilute them to the point of becoming non explosive, thought that concentration was the danger. Terrierman 1
Terrierman Posted August 15 Posted August 15 An explosimeter is about $400. What does a lawsuit from a burn victim cost?
Terrierman Posted August 15 Posted August 15 48 minutes ago, tjm said: It does sound like the newer boats are designed to explode. I would put the blower a duct work away from and outside of the compartment, pushing "fresh" air in ... but then I'd seperate the fuel tank from the engine compartment too, so I'm not smart enough to be a boat designer. So, how often do the fuel docks catch fire or explode? every boat there must have starters and pumps? I had thought that spreading the fumes out over much larger areas served to dilute them to the point of becoming non explosive, thought that concentration was the danger. 100%. Fuel / air mixture has to be in the correct range to burn. Explosion = fast burn.
fishinwrench Posted August 16 Posted August 16 3 hours ago, Terrierman said: An explosimeter is about $400. What does a lawsuit from a burn victim cost? Who ya gonna sue ? Likely the greatest cause of the ignition of excess vapor are battery connections that aren't clean & tight. I say that because 98% of boats that come to my shop have crusty, dirty, or loose battery connections. There is battery draw even when the key is OFF and all the switches are OFF. You cannot disconnect/connect a battery on most boats (or automobiles) without there being a spark. And a loose battery connection is sparking all the time. Wing nuts on a battery must be FLOAT TESTED before using them, on ANY boat. Toss them in the lake.....and if they FLOAT then you can safely use them. Why some battery manufacturers still provide them is a mystery to me. Only use a 1/2" or 9/16" nut.....and tighten it securely with a WRENCH ! nomolites and snagged in outlet 3 1 1
jdmidwest Posted August 16 Posted August 16 1 hour ago, fishinwrench said: Who ya gonna sue ? Likely the greatest cause of the ignition of excess vapor are battery connections that aren't clean & tight. I say that because 98% of boats that come to my shop have crusty, dirty, or loose battery connections. There is battery draw even when the key is OFF and all the switches are OFF. You cannot disconnect/connect a battery on most boats (or automobiles) without there being a spark. And a loose battery connection is sparking all the time. Wing nuts on a battery must be FLOAT TESTED before using them, on ANY boat. Toss them in the lake.....and if they FLOAT then you can safely use them. Why some battery manufacturers still provide them is a mystery to me. Only use a 1/2" or 9/16" nut.....and tighten it securely with a WRENCH ! Wing nuts work better with my thumb and leatherman tool. I have never floated them, normally they just fall off into that area of no return under the deck out of reach. Daryk Campbell Sr 1 "Life has become immeasurably better since I have been forced to stop taking it seriously." — Hunter S. Thompson
tjm Posted August 16 Posted August 16 4 hours ago, fishinwrench said: Likely the greatest cause of the ignition of excess vapor are battery connections that aren't clean & tight. The only cause of ignition of excess vapor is excess vapor. Fix that and the sparks will be safe, no?
Terrierman Posted August 16 Posted August 16 13 hours ago, fishinwrench said: Who ya gonna sue ? Everybody. Starting with the last mechanic to touch that boat.
snagged in outlet 3 Posted August 16 Posted August 16 16 minutes ago, Terrierman said: Everybody. Starting with the last mechanic to touch that boat. You COULD win the case and get an award but collecting some big judgment from a mechanic is not likely. fishinwrench 1
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