MrGiggles

That has just been my experience fishing Stockton, 55-65 is best, much warmer than that it gets tougher, for crappie anyways. I don't know much about bass. I caught a jet black male with totally ragged out fins on Friday, like he had been tending a bed for some time. If they are on the beds up by the dam, pretty good assumption that they have been there done that further up the lake where it's a few degrees warmer.

I've come to the same conclusion. Even the retired guys around here still work at least part time to stay busy. Generally speaking, there's usually a reason why some places can't find good help, look at the common denominator. If you've been divorced 5 times, maybe it's you.

Water temps were 66 at the dam yesterday. I think the spawn is close to being over and done with.

I snuck out for a couple hours last night. I ended the night with 3 keeper walleyes, 4 shorts, 2 crappie, and a couple whites. All anywhere from 45-20 feet along the dropoff of a point, livescoping with a zoom tiny fluke on an 1/8 oz jig. Lot of fun.

Sure makes you wonder if we're headed for another 2008. Housing market is on fire, homes selling everywhere for above list. Can't say that I blame people for sitting at home and collecting more on unemployment than they were making before. Gas going up has less to do with the president and more with lessening travel restrictions and the big winter storm in the south. Plus there is usually always an uptick in the spring and summer every year.

Scarcity sells, big time. Nintendo purposefully limits the amount of consoles they produce. The Switch was introduced in 2017 and it's still difficult to find in store. Apple does the same thing with Iphones, Nvidia with graphics cards, Sony/Microsoft with their consoles, etc.. I guess it's better to produce a few that are guaranteed to sell, instead of producing a monkey dodo load and over saturating the market. Look at what happened when word got out that toilet paper was running low. All gone in a flash. The "get it while you can" mentality is real.

Spending that same amount of money to harvest a few pounds of fish is a pretty silly counter argument though. The gas alone from a fishing trip would buy more fish at the grocery store than I would bring home.

Having a heck of a time finding reloading stuff or 6.5 Grendel ammo for a decent price. Anyone got a pound of CFE223 that they'd be willing to part with for $50? Wouldn't mind some CCI 450 primers either.

If you can find one from a company based in America that rebuilds them, definitely. White box chinese stuff, probably not. If that were a more common engine I'd say run to pick-n-pull and grab a handful for $50, but I'm not sure you'd have much luck finding a late 4.3, but you never know. I put a set of remans on a 7.4 Vortec once and they worked fine for many years, but that was a totally different style injector. Might give these guys a call. https://www.motormanfuelinjection.com/page/subpage/gm-vortec-spider-injector/Returnless-Fuel-V6-Vortec-Spider.htm

I was not able to run that stuff very well, if at all. The melting point of the rod is really close to that of aluminum. Pretty easy to blow a big hole in your work piece.

USPS has been struggling since Trump cut their funding a while back. I haven't had much trouble with Fedex or UPS. It's called Smartpost or Surepost and I hate it too. Takes twice as long.

I've had a spot or two in the nether regions once or twice. It's easy enough to have some of it on your fingers while working outside, then go to scratch that itch or take a leak, and the rest is history. About all I have to do is look at it to get a rash. Taking a burning hot shower makes it almost worth getting, it feels darn good.

Some refurbed OEM injectors should do fine. Lots of places rebuild them. I'd trust those more than an aftermarket replacement, and they'll be quite a bit cheaper.

Happy to help.

That would fit the diagnosis for leaking injectors. A fuel pressure test would tell you. Fuel trims would be in the negative too.

I found this for models that don't have the wheel buttons. Apparently that didn't show up into 05 or 06. As for why yours seems to be flip flopping between modes, that's a tough one. Programmable Automatic Door Locks (If Equipped) Your vehicle may be equipped with an auto lock/unlock feature which enables you to program your power door locks. The following instructions detail how to program your door locks. To enter the program mode you need to: 1. Pull back on the the turn signal/multifunction lever all the way toward you and hold it while you perform the next step. 2. Beginning with the ignition in OFF, turn your key to ON. Return it to OFF and turn to ON again. Then return it to OFF. Once you do this, you will hear the lock switch lock and unlock. 3. You are now ready to program the automatic door locks. You will have ten seconds to program once you release the turn signal/multifunction lever. The following is a list of the available programming options: Press the lock side of the lock switch on the driver’s side door panel once to turn on the automatic door lock feature. All doors lock. No doors will unlock. Do the same twice to turn off the automatic door lock feature. No doors will lock or unlock. Auto unlocking will not work if auto locking is turned off. Press the unlock side of the lock switch on the door panel once to unlock the driver’s door and lock all other doors. Do the same twice to unlock all the doors. All doors lock and unlock. (This is the factory setting). Do the same three times to turn off the automatic door lock feature. No doors will lock or unlock. You can exit the program mode any time by turning the ignition to ON. The automatic lock feature will lock all the doors when the vehicle speed is greater that 15 mph (24 km/h) for two seconds. Your vehicle left the factory programmed to have all the doors unlock once the key is removed from the ignition and lock when vehicle speed exceeds 15 mph (24 km/h). See your dealer for more information. If the lock/unlock switches are not pressed while in the programming mode, the respective auto lock/unlock setting will not be modified. As for adding grounds, that is a possibility. There should be a couple on the engine that go to the body and frame. If you wanted, it is not hard to add them. Big stereo guys do what they call the the big 3 upgrade, replace the alternator charge wire, ground from battery to engine, and the ground from battery to body with heavy 4 or 1/0 gauge wire. The factory charge wire and ground straps are comically undersized for the alternator capacity, those braided ground straps don't last long in the rust belt, and if the truck has ever had any engine/transmission work done, who knows if they got put back in the right place or even put back at all.

The dome light and dingers are probably the door ajar switches (they are inside the latch) sticking, thinking the doors are closed even when they're open. The ones in my 06 act up as well sometimes. There are two settings for the auto door lock feature. One locks them as soon as you drop it in drive, the other locks them when you hit a certain speed (I think it's 15 mph). You change the settings in the menu with the steering wheel buttons. The dingers go through the radio on our trucks. The faint tone could be a lot of things, but I would get the latches fixed up first and see what that does. Tire size will throw off the speedometer, odometer, and speedometer. If you're not running the stock tires, they will be off. GMs are easily programmed with any plug in tuner. If you've got the stock tires, someone may have changed the settings in the past if the truck has ever had a tuner on it. Although if it not consistent this is probably not the issue.

There are a couple TSBs on those 4.3s, one about the A/C line dripping water on it and causing corrosion, and another regarding distributor gear wear. The latter could be eliminated by putting a scanner on it and checking the timing numbers. I would only look at 02 sensors if it runs good when cold and only acts up once warm. When the engine is cold, it is not even looking at the 02 sensor readings. A fuel pressure test would be smart as well, just to make sure nothing is leaking down into the intake, although that is usually accompanied with a poor hot start or extended cranking. This also relates to fuel trims, if the fuel pressure was low, you'd also likely have a P0171, and inversely, if it was leaking, likely a P0172. Where did you get your tune up parts? I got burned by Amazon once, bought a set of plugs that started misfiring within months because they were counterfeit. That P0300 can be a real bugger to diagnose, since it can have a whole myriad of causes, clogged cats, distributor, crank/cam sensors, ignition failures, mechanical issues, etc.

What year? Pre-03 had CSFI with a center spider and poppet injectors for each cylinder. When they get some age, they will start to dribble, or develop vacuum leaks in the intake assemblies. If it goes away at wide open throttle, they are probably dribbling. That CSFI and intake gasket leaks were the achillies heel to those early Vortec motors. What are the fuel trims like? And does it set any codes other than P0300?

The high point area isn't too bad in the wind, the worst will be around Turkey creek. Be careful motoring around out there, lots of timber and with the water high, a lot of it will be hidden.

I was out two Sundays ago. It was high, and dirty. Water about 50 degrees. I did manage 3 keeper crappie and some shorts, but had to work for them.

Just about be worth it to leave the junker on there and throw on a CMC setup.

Live bait? Ain't nobody got time for that.

Are you using forward on down on Livescope? I used down primarily on the last trip, played with forward a little bit yesterday. My transducer pole setup needs some improvement.

Just about perfect.