ethanol sucks

[Linhardt]

You guys need to get one of these

IMG_20150514_101909.jpg

and see what you are getting from your "no ethanol" stations. It's all E10. I test the fuel in every boat that comes in here and "good fuel" all tests the same regardless, and they come from all points between here and Minnesota/Florida/South Carolina/Colorado.

Stabil does a fine job on a tank of fuel that is SITTING MOTIONLESS for a month or more, but when you are shaking it around and just burning it you are wasting your money.

As for Seafoam and other non-combustables....I have attempted to manually clean gummy fuel system components and carboned ring grooves with it and it absolutely does nothing even when assisted with a brass brush. The only thing I have found that removes hard carbon deposits is a FREE substance called Water.

As for rubber degradation from Alcohol enhanced fuel....All I have to say is that things made from rubber have NEVER lasted forever and have always required reasonable replacement after time. All the crankshaft seals and such in your post 1990 outboards are "alcohol tolerant" material, but they still don't last forever. The funny thing about the alcohol tolerant rubber in your fuel lines and primer bulbs is that it degrades quicker from temperature variations (hot-cold-hot-cold) than regular rubber degrades from contact with alcohol.

You guys that are always mixing up this witches brew to burn in your outboards are honesty wasting your time and money. It might make you feel good or something, but that's only because you read too much.

Can you purchase one of those test tubes at a local store like NAPA or AutoZone? I know you can get them online, just wanted to know if I can get local.

[mjk86]

But sir you are incorrect. The new vehicles, my truck included, will run and perform on ethanol gas because it's designed for Flex-Fuel but the gas mileage is significantly down graded. As for the damage ethanol fuel causes it's because of the condensation ethanol fuel promotes more than the actual performance of the fuel burning (BTUs) itself, which does burn hotter than regular unleaded gasoline. Also if you have a vehicle a little older like my 2008 work car, the ethanol laced fuel makes my engine ping/knock horribly. I could delve into the chemistry because I did the research when I bougt my new boat / Merc 250 outboard. They recommend absolutely no more than 10% ethanol by volume and even with that they require a stabilizer.

Do as you please man....you dropped all that money on a merc 250, so if it makes you feel a little better about your outrageously priced outboard drive all over to find urself some "clean" gas. In the meantime my 1998 mariner and my 2002 tacoma (which have always been ran on ethanol fuel with no problems) are going fishing. ALso...if you wanna "delve into the chemistry" pm me and ill discuss it further with you....you can hear it from an actual chemist. Ever think that Mercury is a little unsure of a 250hp outboard? Hence the "dont use ethanol to save our butt" warning.

[mjk86]

Yes you are correct cars do run just fine on ethanol fuel, but your car very rarely if ever sits for weeks or maybe a month at time and it is not 2 stroke. Ethanol fuel it self is not the problem, Phase separation and water absorbsion are the culprits in 2 stroke engines that require oil in the fuel to oil your cylinders. Phase separated fuel will smell and look totally different than any Gas you have ever been around. Stations fuel can separate in the tanks even very busy stations, the only way to salvage separated fuel is to add multiple gallons of isopropal alcohol to the tank and aggitate till it absorbs the water were it can be burned thus increasing the acohol percentage. If you want to know why I know this is because i worked for a company that built and repaired fuel station equipment and we got regular calls to fix separated fuel and a station will spend some money to not loose 3000 gallons of fuel. For you old timers remember HEET, if you ever looked at the ingreidients Alcohol It fixes water in fuel. Ethanol bad for 2 strokes and anything that sits for extended periods of time and anything carburated.

Your right....however, separation of two dissimilar liquids will happen with any fuel, unless its 100% alkanes. Gas is a mixture of all sorts of organic crap of varying molecular weights and polarities, in addition it has some % of water. Added ethanol is just one more thing to separate out. Heres how to fix it, dont let gas sit out in the elements for months and months at a time. Dont let it sit in the cylinders and carbs and fuel lines....clean/burn that ish out. Ethanol isnt bad for 2 stroke motors....sitting in your garage for 9 months is bad for them. 2 stroke engines need to be used and ran or stored properly.

[dtrs5kprs]

good to know that I have a place to fuel up in the area I'm staying next week. Thanks Dave

Most welcome. My fuel sits in the tank more than just about anyone else's. Burn maybe 15 gallons in a year. Maybe. If I run a lot with the kids.

Have always figured you can't avoid all ethanol due to the single hose and nozzle. Just have to do the best you can.

Timmy is right on about the isopropyl picking up more water. One of the more useful things I learned in organic chemistry. More places for the water to bond, basically.

[fishinwrench]

I'll be darn if I'd pay 20k for a machine that I had to go on searches to find fuel for, and only a select few businesses have a person "qualified" to work on it.

That's all just BS and yet everyone just soaks that rhetoric up and goes along with it. It's funny really.

[Ham]

I know fresh fuel is better than stale.This is an issue to be concerned with Ethanol free or E10.

I bear the extra burden of having gas tanks that are realy too large for my needs. I have two (2) x 27 gallon tanks. I try to keep them at least 3/4's full to reduce condensation and I try to alternate which tank I am using in an attempt to add fresher fuel from time to time to both tanks..

Prehaps, I should just run the one on the drivers side "dry" and not refill it until this fall. I will most likely make enough trips in the next month or so to use all the fuel in driver side tank up.

I try to run my boat at least once a month and when the bite is o,n I wish that number was about 5 times a week.

I have a clear understanding that my 2008/09 or whatever Merc have fuel lines designed to handle the ethanol blends. I do not think that ethanol produces the same power that gasoline does, but I could be wrong. I feel like I have seen a mileage drop off when using 10% ethanol in my truck. My truck can handle E85 so I don't worry about E10 blends in my truck all that much. My boat motor is not designed for E15 much less E85. I would rather have E0 in the boat and have less condensation issues.

I choose to run gas with additives HOPING for enhanced stability and reduced condensation. I would rather try something than do nothing and hope for the best.

[GNSfishing]

I'll be darn if I'd pay 20k for a machine that I had to go on searches to find fuel for, and only a select few businesses have a person "qualified" to work on it.

That's all just BS and yet everyone just soaks that rhetoric up and goes along with it. It's funny really.

Well I'm one of those that put out my hard earned money for the equipment I have and I follow what the manufacture tells me what to use in the way of fuel, oil, and maintenance on my equipment. These manufacturers know their engines and what to use in fuels and additives to keep your equipment running as it should be and to keep the customer satisfied with their product so when you are ready you'll come back. They have spent many $$$$ on R&D on their product and recommend/tell you what to use to have a good experience with their product. All mechanics that wants/needs to continue working on the new equipment need to keep themselves updated with the knowledge to work on and service the latest equipment sold. The new outboard motors now days don't require the hammer & crescent wrench mechanics anymore and they are being left behind with new technology that these newer motors require to last and perform for a long time. These motors and oils along with the fuels being produced nowadays are the best ever for longevity if you follow their recommendations and if you don't then you'll pay the piper sooner or later. Then it is no laughing matter....

[Terrierman]

I'll be darn if I'd pay 20k for a machine that I had to go on searches to find fuel for, and only a select few businesses have a person "qualified" to work on it.

That's all just BS and yet everyone just soaks that rhetoric up and goes along with it. It's funny really.

Once in a while we are all wrong. This time it's your turn.

[Champ188]

Just went out and tested no-ethanol gas that I use for my small 2 stroke engines. No ethanol in it. I'm going to test that gas at the HWY 62 station at the pump, next time I stop there, you never know. But so far, I have yet to find any ethanol in gas that is labeled no ethanol.

QB, your methodology or test kits must be flawed. All of these station owners touting no-ethanol gas are liars and us idiots are falling for it. I read that somewhere.

[fishinwrench]

The new outboard motors now days don't require the hammer & crescent wrench mechanics anymore and they are being left behind with new technology that these newer motors require to last and perform for a long time.

LMFAO ! Captured for posterity.

I've been working on these things every day since 1987 and I am seeing no reduction in the number of blown powerheads and gearcases as time goes on. The computer is sweet but I still need my hammer and wrenches.

Terrierman, if being wrong works then I'm OK with it. The engines that I've built and do service on are all still running great. Some have lasted longer since I rebuilt them than they did from the factory. I'm kinda proud of that.