Turd Polishing

[fishinwrench]

Sounds like you need a stator and a switchbox.  Low stator voltage likely killed the switchbox.   Trigger is probably fine, but if it has a degrading harness, and you aren't broke yet.....then you might as well get a fresh one.

Timing will need to be checked/reset after replacing the trigger.

[MrGiggles]

6 hours ago, fishinwrench said:

Sounds like you need a stator and a switchbox.  Low stator voltage likely killed the switchbox.   Trigger is probably fine, but if it has a degrading harness, and you aren't broke yet.....then you might as well get a fresh one.

Timing will need to be checked/reset after replacing the trigger.

Thanks. Kinda sucks, but nobody said boats were cheap. And I have put very little work in this motor since I've had it, I suppose it was about time.

Say my switch box was good, would I be getting low voltage (close to what the stator is putting out) at the ignition coils? Assuming my understanding of the system is correct, the stator is the power generator, the trigger controls ignition events, and the switch box distributors power to each coil.

I found a parts motor on FB for 50$ and brought it home. It's got a presumed good CDI trigger, and a possibly functioning switch box. The stator harness is totally rotten. I'll get a stator ordered and go from there.

[fishinwrench]

15 hours ago, MrGiggles said:

Assuming my understanding of the system is correct, the stator is the power generator, the trigger controls ignition events, and the switch box distributors power to each coil

You've got it right. 

The trigger and switchbox (together) do what POINTS AND CONDENSERS used to do back when life was simple.

[MrGiggles]

Success!

[fishinwrench]

Good job !

[Krazo]

very impressive work

[MrGiggles]

On 7/28/2019 at 11:51 AM, fishinwrench said:

Sounds like you need a stator and a switchbox.  Low stator voltage likely killed the switchbox.   Trigger is probably fine, but if it has a degrading harness, and you aren't broke yet.....then you might as well get a fresh one.

Timing will need to be checked/reset after replacing the trigger.

Got another quick question for you.

I was trying to set the timing last night. Didn't bother to check the timing pointer (probably a mistake). Before I adjusted anything, it was way too far advanced. I'm pretty much out of adjustment at 25*, it should be 23, I think something is wrong.

The service manual (which is one step above toilet paper IMO) goes through some complicated process of checking TDC with a dial indicator. The flywheel has a master spline so it can only go on one way. Is that procedure even necessary, or could I just use a screwdriver down the plug hole to verify that TDC aligns with 0* at the pointer?

I don't want this thing to go kaboom after spending so much on it.

[fishinwrench]

I'm glad you asked that because it shows that you have studied and are doing your best to do excellent work.  👏

So now I'm gonna piss you off and tell you what I do (and this ain't by the book).  A long time ago I spent good money with the Snap-On man because I thought I needed a precise dial indicator and a variety of attaching hardware.....but I haven't touched it in years.   If your flywheel is simply marked ZERO then set that #1 at zero with a kabob stick.   If your flywheel is marked .472 (or some other rediculous measurement) then roll the crank over clockwise until you just begin to feel the rod kick over just barely noticably and set your pointer on that .472 (or whatever the hell it is) and you'll be fine.

Set your spec timing static at cranking speed and then retard it by 2° and lock it down.     Double check it after locking it down and moving things around a bit.... and if you're still there you're perfect. Never touch it again.   

[fishinwrench]

But DO check THESE THINGS ...

Here's my newest thing to be anal on with Mercury's.....Ya know those little plastic linkage sync caps like these? 

This one broke off and allowed the ignition to over advance about 16°

 

[fishinwrench]

And caused THIS