Cranking Battery Advice

[vernon]

20 minutes ago, fishinwrench said:

Fine, but this is the last time 😅 

 

Trying to get ONE MORE SEASON out of a tired battery is begging for outboard charging system failure (stator & voltage regulator).    Swap that cranking battery with a 900-1000 MCA every 3rd year and you'll never have that 2000.00 repair bill. 

The most important guage on your helm is the Voltmeter.  They should make them 4" and the tach 2"... instead of the other way around.     Watch your voltmeter when starting the motor, and glance at it often when running.   If it dips much below 10v while cranking, and isn't between 13-15 while running then you need to find out WHY immediately.     Over 15v will boil your battery dry. Under 12.5 will cause numerous circuits to overheat, which will drastically shorten the life of ignition/charging system components....they are all co-dependant on each other, and none of those components are cheap.

This info is also relative to your trolling motor circuit. A trolling motor ran using tired (or near dead) battery(s) will overheat every circuit in the system and bake the brushes.  A trolling motor that is never operated with a nearly discharged battery will probably last FOREVER.  But operate it with a 40% charged battery just once and you'll loose power and shorten the overall life of that unit for good.   

 

There.   Can we pin this somewhere so I don't have to keep repeating myself?   I'd rather spend my time reminding everyone about how ignorant it is to haul bass around in livewells. 😊

Sorry - I guess I posted this about half a nano second after yours.

[Toby Estes]

I have been really pleased with the X2 battery. A little bit more than most others, but, it has a 4 year full replacement warranty. I got mine (31 series) at a batteries plus bulbs store for about $350. I think the 24 series is a little cheaper.

[Dutch]

Vernon I was running a similar rig (250 Verado with 3 Lowrance units).  I went through 2 different techs and some rewiring and 3 batteries.  I had voltage issues until I got the X2 battery from batteries + bulbs.  It is 1150 cca with 225 rc.  It is very similar to the old Sears PM1 that I used in my old Champion.  I am very happy with it.

[fishinwrench]

Just FYI.....  Nothing has changed, in regard to outboard charging system output or required starting voltage, over the last 25 years.   Newer high tech outboards if anything are more conservative in regards to voltage, not more demanding.   

There's no reason whatsoever to buy 400.00 cranking batteries.  You're being sold a line of BS.     If you are piling on the electronic accessories to the point that a decent quality cranking battery can't keep up then you should consider isolating those electronics from the engine circuit and give them their own power source.   

Your voltage needs, in order to catch fish, has gotten rediculous.  🙄

[Flysmallie]

10 minutes ago, fishinwrench said:

Your voltage needs, in order to catch fish, has gotten rediculous.  🙄

 

Truth

[vernon]

So do RCA's even matter?

I'm finding them from 125 to 225 on batteries with similar MCA's.

Or at least I think I am.......

Would somebody mind just going out and picking up the absolute most perfect battery for my needs and installing it for me?

I'd be ever so grateful........😚

Being helpless AND stupid is not nearly as easy as I make it look.

[fishinwrench]

9 minutes ago, vernon said:

So do RCA's even matter?

I'm finding them from 125 to 225 on batteries with similar MCA's

If you're stressing over Reserve Capacity, and your rigging is such that reserve capacity is a valid concern......then my advice is to isolate your EXTRA CURRICULAR voltage pigs to their own pen.

[snagged in outlet 3]

I've been looking at troller batts for two months now and none of them compare apples to apples.  Some list amp hours, others don't, some list reserve capacity and the other's don't.

What is the definitive rating to look for in deep cycle?  

[Dutch]

Wrench I don’t know anything about the engine needs but I do know that today’s high def electronics consume a lot of juice.  A regular cranking battery has little chance of keeping them going all day.  I agree with you that a house battery for electronics isn't a bad option if one has room for it and a decent way of charging it.

[Dutch]

1 hour ago, snagged in outlet 3 said:

I've been looking at troller batts for two months now and none of them compare apples to apples.  Some list amp hours, others don't, some list reserve capacity and the other's don't.

What is the definitive rating to look for in deep cycle?  

Are you wanting flooded cell or agm batteries?