Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
20 minutes ago, fishinwrench said:

 Those harbor freight babies need to be fed knuckles and hunks of flesh. 

 

20 minutes ago, fishinwrench said:

 Those harbor freight babies need to be fed knuckles and hunks of flesh. 

Ill be honest i use a lot of Harbor Freight wrenches and sockets for light stuff.  I think it is good enough for the guy like me that just has to work on stuff when needed.  Ive used high quality stuff before and if i did it for  living that is what i would buy for sure. I keep cheep a cheap harbor set of sockets in my boat...  Even got to use the ratchet today, my starter didnt want to engage, so i hit it a few times..lol.    My 6 year old was worried we were going to spend the night on the lake.  bendix doesnt always engage on the ol girl, time for more dry lube

Posted
2 hours ago, aarchdale@coresleep.com said:

 

Ill be honest i use a lot of Harbor Freight wrenches and sockets for light stuff.  I think it is good enough for the guy like me that just has to work on stuff when needed.  Ive used high quality stuff before and if i did it for  living that is what i would buy for sure. I keep cheep a cheap harbor set of sockets in my boat...  Even got to use the ratchet today, my starter didnt want to engage, so i hit it a few times..lol.    My 6 year old was worried we were going to spend the night on the lake.  bendix doesnt always engage on the ol girl, time for more dry lube

Nothing wrong with cheaper wrenches as long as they'll fit on the fasteners ok.  Wall thickness of the wrenches and sockets, and the degree of angle on the box-end side, is the main complaint with bargain priced tools. Sloppy ratchets that require 1/4 turn to catch the next cog will have you throwing tools across the shop and insulting the parents of everyone around you.  Most things I work on are hard enough to get a good tool on, and mediocre tools just make it that much more difficult.  Professional mechanics aren't known for their unwavering patience.  😂

Your starter Bendix issue is likely not a problem with the Bendix or the gearing of the starter shaft.   Weak voltage caused by a bad battery, sloppy connection, dirty solenoid, worn brushes or a cracked magnet in the starter are what's causing that.   If all the other components of the starter circuit are good then you couldn't keep that Bendix from slamming up solidly even if you tried to sabotage it.  👍  Get that figured out and fixed soon, or else you're gonna be out there one day trying to wrap a piece of ski rope around the flywheel and cussing like a sailor.

Posted
Quote
8 hours ago, fishinwrench said:

 

Your starter Bendix issue is likely not a problem with the Bendix or the gearing of the starter shaft.   Weak voltage caused by a bad battery, sloppy connection, dirty solenoid, worn brushes or a cracked magnet in the starter are what's causing that.   If all the other components of the starter circuit are good then you couldn't keep that Bendix from slamming up solidly even if you tried to sabotage it.  👍  Get that figured out and fixed soon, or else you're gonna be out there one day trying to wrap a piece of ski rope around the flywheel and cussing like a sailor.

 

This boat has always been weird its like the bendix will kick out and disengage after you have cranked it a few times.  I will say the last couple trips i noticed when i start the boat my front graph loses signal. Ill clean the connections and see what happens. The battery is a Pro Guide less than a year old.

Posted
3 hours ago, aarchdale@coresleep.com said:

This boat has always been weird its like the bendix will kick out and disengage after you have cranked it a few times.  I will say the last couple trips i noticed when i start the boat my front graph loses signal. Ill clean the connections and see what happens. The battery is a Pro Guide less than a year old.

If you've operated it on low voltage for a period of time then you have likely smoked the armature contacts of the starter, and overheated the solenoid.   

It's the same type of degradation that occurs with trolling motors after they are operated with a dead or dying battery for a length of time.  The entire circuit from battery to armature suffers damage.  Low voltage causes excessive heat all through the circuit.  This is why today's cordless tools last so much longer than the old ones before nicad battery's came along.  They maintain their voltage up until the battery just suddenly dies all together.    Lead acid batteries just gradually fall off in voltage until they are dead.   

Posted

I always get a new Battery every 3 years just to be safe. I run two 9" screens and a 7", livescope and livewells running. I ran thats stuff all spring and summer without any battery problems. 

The Starter has done this periodically for the last 12 years. I bought it from my dad. I know when i got it a few years back the house Battery was 7 years old and toast, so im sure he ran it with low voltage, maybe time to just get a new starter to be safe. I under my hood there is a pull rope that i have always dreaded trying to use 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.