1976 Evinrude 25HP

[fishinwrench]

My guess is that they assumed the year of manufacture by the serial # , but that's not how it's done.  

[Daryk Campbell Sr]

Alas, I got a compression test kit as well as a spark tester.  I have spark on both cylinders.  But the top cylinder has no compression.   The lower has 125 PSI.  Frankenstein will earn his name.   

How difficult would it be to possibly fix it. Assuming the worst.  Any special tools needed?  I have most tools that should do the job, including feeler gauges.  But I have never honed an engine. 

Thanks.

[Terrierman]

30 minutes ago, Daryk Campbell Sr said:

Alas, I got a compression test kit as well as a spark tester.  I have spark on both cylinders.  But the top cylinder has no compression.   The lower has 125 PSI.  Frankenstein will earn his name.   

How difficult would it be to possibly fix it. Assuming the worst.  Any special tools needed?  I have most tools that should do the job, including feeler gauges.  But I have never honed an engine. Yet.

Thanks.

Fixed.

O'Reilly's loans a lot of specialty tools.  Good luck and see you and Frank at Jigfest.

[fishinwrench]

2 hours ago, Daryk Campbell Sr said:

, I got a compression test kit as well as a spark tester.  I have spark on both cylinders.  But the top cylinder has no compression.

Don't freak out prematurely.   

Heat rises, so cylinder #1 is the first to succumb to an overheat.  And typically a 2 cylinder engine will blow the head gasket on the top cylinder before you have catastrophic cylinder damage.   Giving you a near-nothing compression reading. 

Remove the cylinder head and inspect the condition of the cylinder, piston, and gasket.  

If the gasket is blown, but the cylinder and piston look ok....Refresh the gasket AND the water pump.....and try again. 

[Daryk Campbell Sr]

2 hours ago, Terrierman said:

Fixed.

O'Reilly's loans a lot of specialty tools.  Good luck and see you and Frank at Jigfest.

I worked a few years at Advance Auto Parts,  I'm familiar with the loaner tools.  I'm not out much, so it's OK if i have other issues.   I will go the way Wrench suggested first,  then move on to the next possible solution.   It was cheap for a reason. 

[fishinwrench]

The only special tools you would need to completely overhaul that motor..... should you actually need to (rare occurrence).....is an Evinrude flywheel puller. 

A standard puller won't cut it..... Trying to use a borrowed harmonic balancer/or gear puller from O'Reilly's can damage the flywheel.....and screw the whole pooch.  

 

The only other thing you need would be a ring compressor......But lacking that, I can show you how to use a large 3" dia. hose clamp from the hardware store to get THAT job done just fine. 

The books will also recommend a high-dollar connecting rod cap alignment tool....but I can tell you how to get THAT job done with a #2 pencil 😉 

And you'll need a 5/16 3/8 drive 12pt. Socket for the connecting rod cap bolts.

[Daryk Campbell Sr]

I appreciate the heads up on the puller.  I have multiple 3 jaw pullers as well as a steering wheel puller that looks similar.  But I'll definitely need your warning.   I should have a few hours tomorrow to remove the head gasket and inspect. 

*heed your warning.  

I need to start proof reading. 

[Terrierman]

11 hours ago, Daryk Campbell Sr said:

I worked a few years at Advance Auto Parts,  I'm familiar with the loaner tools.  I'm not out much, so it's OK if i have other issues.   I will go the way Wrench suggested first,  then move on to the next possible solution.   It was cheap for a reason. 

I'll be following this thread.  Good luck Daryk.

[fishinwrench]

13 hours ago, Daryk Campbell Sr said:

I appreciate the heads up on the puller.  I have multiple 3 jaw pullers as well as a steering wheel puller that looks similar

The deal is that outboard flywheels have magnets either cast into them, or glued onto them ...... And any FLEXING of the flywheel can disturb those magnets.   

Having a magnet come unbuttoned under the flywheel while running will totally wreck everything that is under them.   

Therefore the PULLING has to be applied to the HUB of the flywheel ONLY.  And the bolts used need to be case hardened.....a typical bolt can just rip the threads right off. 

[MrGiggles]

As I recall the bolt circle on those flywheels is quite a bit smaller than your standard harmonic balancer type of puller. Nothing really works aside from the OMC tool.

Additionally, don't thread the puller bolts in too far, I see the ones in Wrench's photo have a should to prevent doing so. Stator coils tend to not work so well once they've had a bolt crammed into them.