Braided line suggestion in a spincaster

[Haris122]

My main reasoning was having stronger line for similar diameter line size, provided that it does other things about as good as the mono, which so far it unfortunately has not. In case I get a big fish on that peels a lot of drag I’d like to have that extra peace of mind that the line won’t get cut as easily from abrading against the reel. About a month back I had a real nice fish on that took me for a ride, and though the drag did a good job, it really helped knowing that the braid was not going to get cut easily if it had got stuck like the drags on a lot of the lower quality spincasters. 

[Old plug]

I got braid, Mono and Nano fil on reels. I got to say if Braid will work on a sin caster (and it should) then so will Nano fil. 

[dan hufferd]

I use high vis 10lb spiderwire stealth braid,  the stealth braid, designation is important, don't get the other stuff.

I use a leader usually some good 10# florocarbon but i sometimes go up to 15# when throwing the spoons.

I can buy the stuff at buds bait, or walmart.

It will last more than a year of fishing. 

[MrGiggles]

21 hours ago, tjm said:

So, it's been a few decades since I used any tackle but fly, I'm not at all current on spinning theology, but why would you chose braid over mono? Back when I was young the transition was from braid to mono.  I always thought that both spin cast and spinning reels were developed especially to take advantage of the monofilament invention.

Braid is more sensitive (no stretch, mono is like a rubber band), much smaller in diameter (cranks run deeper, can fit more on a reel), takes much longer to degrade, and has very little memory. It's also less abrasion resistant, and requires different knots than mono.

[tjm]

4 minutes ago, MrGiggles said:

Braid is more sensitive (no stretch, mono is like a rubber band), much smaller in diameter (cranks run deeper, can fit more on a reel), takes much longer to degrade, and has very little memory. It's also less abrasion resistant, and requires different knots than mono.

I don't get the sensitive part, but that's me being slow I guess. More on reel I understand but have never needed more back when I used spinning gear, how far do you let the fish run? (maybe I had bigger spools, but I used to fill part of them with masking tape or string to reduce the amount of line needed to fill the spool) Taking longer to degrade sounds very negative from a conservation viewpoint, does that stuff ever break or get cut off and left in the water like mono? Less abrasion resistance is why after switching the spool to braid, folks still use  leaders, I guess? I had wondered about that too, and had considered using one of the tiny braids as tippet material but never did.

[Flysmallie]

21 minutes ago, tjm said:

I don't get the sensitive part, but that's me being slow I guess. More on reel I understand but have never needed more back when I used spinning gear, how far do you let the fish run? (maybe I had bigger spools, but I used to fill part of them with masking tape or string to reduce the amount of line needed to fill the spool) Taking longer to degrade sounds very negative from a conservation viewpoint, does that stuff ever break or get cut off and left in the water like mono? Less abrasion resistance is why after switching the spool to braid, folks still use  leaders, I guess? I had wondered about that too, and had considered using one of the tiny braids as tippet material but never did.

Braid is just more sensitive than mono. You can really tell it when fishing on the bottom. But since you are almost exclusively fly fishing it wouldn't be something you would notice.

I do use braid for leader/tippet in the salt. It is more abrasion resistant on those sea creatures. Just one of those fish can destroy a mono or FC leader, but the braid will hold up for a while. There are some steel leaders that you can use but braid has worked well for me. 

[Quillback]

Indeed, braid is bad stuff to toss in the lake, I've pulled out more than a few balls of it out of lakes while fishing.  We all should take responsibility to do all we can to not leave any in the lake. 

As far as sensitivity, it's something you have to experience for yourself I guess - fish a shaky head with mono on a reel, then switch out that reel to one with braid and fish it (using the same rod), you will then understand.

And I believe most people do not fill their spools with braid, put some cheap mono on as backing, then top it off with 50-75 yards of braid.

[Devan S.]

11 minutes ago, tjm said:

I don't get the sensitive part, but that's me being slow I guess. More on reel I understand but have never needed more back when I used spinning gear, how far do you let the fish run? (maybe I had bigger spools, but I used to fill part of them with masking tape or string to reduce the amount of line needed to fill the spool) Taking longer to degrade sounds very negative from a conservation viewpoint, does that stuff ever break or get cut off and left in the water like mono? Less abrasion resistance is why after switching the spool to braid, folks still use  leaders, I guess? I had wondered about that too, and had considered using one of the tiny braids as tippet material but never did.

Both braid and mono use plastic polymers, both of which take reasonably long to decompose in the environment. There is enough difference in polymers used and in processing that it would be impossible to make a blanket statement to compare the 2 but generally speaking were talking over human lifetimes to be thoroughly decomposed in the environment. With that kind of timeline, I don't believe you could claim one is really any better for the environment.

I believe the claim of degrading was along the line of UV breakdown, development of memory, kinks in line ect. all of which reduce the strength compared to the advertised strength. A significant amount of this degradation isn't due to true breakdown of the materials(in a environmental sense) but more in line with the stretch/yield factors. You eventually yield mono to the point that it will not go back to its original state. At that point, something has to change oftentimes the polymers split or the cross sectional area is reduced leading to a reduction in strength but at the end of the day those polymers are still there just no longer acting in accordance to how you expect them too. 

 

I use 10/2 braid on my trolling rods. That line certainly isn't getting used like it would on a jig rod but I know when I get hung up to the point I cant get lures off, it often takes looping the line around a boat cleat to break it/pull free and this stuff is often 3-4 years old before I even consider changing it out. 

[MrGiggles]

1 hour ago, tjm said:

I don't get the sensitive part, but that's me being slow I guess. More on reel I understand but have never needed more back when I used spinning gear, how far do you let the fish run? (maybe I had bigger spools, but I used to fill part of them with masking tape or string to reduce the amount of line needed to fill the spool) Taking longer to degrade sounds very negative from a conservation viewpoint, does that stuff ever break or get cut off and left in the water like mono? Less abrasion resistance is why after switching the spool to braid, folks still use  leaders, I guess? I had wondered about that too, and had considered using one of the tiny braids as tippet material but never did.

Reel capacity is more for trolling rods. That would never be a factor for casting rods.

When I said degrade, I meant that from a fishing stand point, not biodegrading in the environment. Braid won't be junk from sitting in the sun for a few weeks like mono would. I change mono pretty frequently, I have yet to change a spool of braid for any other reason than wanting to try something different. 

Lines with little stretch are better for structure fishing, you can feel bottom, rocks, brush, or tree limbs much easier. The actual strike is much easier to detect as well. Fishing brush with mono, sometimes I get excited and sink the hook into a limb, with braid/nanofil I can easily tell the difference between something solid and a fish. Makes working a brush pile much less frustrating.

[Old dog 417]

4 hours ago, Devan S. said:

I know when I get hung up to the point I cant get lures off, it often takes looping the line around a boat cleat to break it/pull free and this stuff is often 3-4 years old before I even consider changing it out. 

Same here! I use 15/4 Power Pro on my trolling rods and carry a pair of leather gloves as I learned the hard way a couple of times that it wasn't going to break

or pull free easily. Wrapping around a cleat a few times and kicking the trolling motor on high is by far the fastest and least painful method free a crank-bait after

other types of retrieval attempts had failed. All this time I've been curious if I was the only one doing it that way. Good to know.

od