I bought no card.
I did spend too much on chocolates.
Bought her lunch at a cheap Mexican restaurant.
Then to top her day off we drove 70 miles to a high school basketball game.
Yep, she's a lucky lady.
I for sure wouldn't want to spray it in a closed up tent. Trophy I remember your little booth. That is perfect. As long as you have good air flow then the fumes should not be a problem. You don't need a full face mask. Maybe some safety glasses so you don't shoot it in your eye. If you are creating a huge fog when shooting clear or anything else then you are doing it wrong. That's just wasted material.
I spray in my garage with a fan pushing the fumes outside. It's never been an issue. Simplest thing in the world.
The urethane auto clears that I use have mostly been used over automotive paints. Acrylic, Urethane, Water Based. Yes it works over Copic and Createx. A good quality paint thinner works great for clean up.
That aerosol is the good stuff. But it's pricey. And once you activate it you are going to need to use it up fairly quick. Probably not going to last but a few days.
To me this is the simplest system there is. If you are frustrated by clearing a nicely painted bait then this is your answer. It's not going to give that thick epoxy look but it will look as good as a new finish on a car and it's pretty durable too.
No need to delete or apologize. One of these days the water is going to warm and the fishing will be great. When that happens get to work on some of those locations I told you and message me with any questions about them.
Can't wait to see some reports about the monsters you catch.
I use standard urethane automotive clear. Has to be sprayed. Couple of coats is all you need. Hang it to dry. The fumes can be an issue which is why you should be using a respirator but to be honest if you are spraying any kind of paint or clear you should be using a respirator. It's not something you want to spray in your house but as long as you have good ventilation then it's not an issue. I've seen some of you state that you've painted but you have to wait until it warms up to clear. Not necessary with auto clear. Now I wouldn't paint a car with it when it was cold but I'm not worrying about something that small when it's cold. The key is to make sure that the item isn't cold itself.
I would be leery of anything in a aerosol. Unless it's one of the special ones that you activate right before using. 2K gets thrown around a lot but it stands for two component. That's hard to do in an aerosol, but not impossible. I would rather mix it with the activator myself and spray it out of an airbrush.
You can also use an accelerator if you mix it yourself. That's going to speed up the dry time. I can clear a bait and have it dry and ready to fish in about 20 minutes.
The biggest drawback is the upfront cost. It's probably cheaper in the long run but it's going to be expensive in the beginning because the quantities that you have to buy.
Where you will probably see it is when you get a chip in it from banging it against a rock or something. But it might not happen at all. Might hold together just fine.
I'll stick with automotive clear. Much easier to work with, doesn't yellow, doesn't need a drying wheel, dries fast.
If there was going to be a reaction it would have already happened. The only issue you might have is delamination. Where the two coatings don't adhere well to each other.
Lancer is spot on. Not many places to slip and fall on Taney unless it's a mud bank. Then splitting the seams in you waders is the biggest problem. I've actually busted my butt more in felt soles than the vibrams I'm currently using.
The dam was never in jeopardy. But if the spillway blew then it would have been a 30 ft wall of water. So they can either evacuate and let everyone female doggy about it when it doesn't blow. Or not evacuate and let a bunch of people die if it does blow, and then everyone will female doggy about it.