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Posted

You all might have noticed a comment I made in one of Fisherman's post about fiberglass repair. I had a couple of scratches from being out in a bad storm and getting in an unpadded dock. I got a total of 3 bids on the repairs that ranged from $3,500 to $5,000. I got it fixed for under a grand.

All three repair locations were locals and all three wanted me to run it thru my insurance. All three said there was at least 20 hrs. in repair time.  "Actually repair time was 6 hrs." All 3 said materials for the repair would be between $1,500 and $2,500. "Actual material cost $135.00." Purchased directly by me from Phoenix. 

Not naming names but you need to be really careful with any fiberglass repairs. If the first words from them is who is your insurance co. Beware.

Depending on facilities and overhead I more than understand that folks have to make a living and those facilities are going to cost different for each company. 

That being said there is no reason to inflate hours into repair projects and simply no reason to mark up parts 100 to 200 percent. 

Do some research, no one is taking care of you, but you. 

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Right side. Gel and white also spider cracking

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Perfect repair

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Left side 6 in cut thru cap1\4 inch deep

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Never have a clue it ever happened 

Good Luck

Posted

Did you remove the lettering to do the repairs? 

TinBoats BassClub.  An aluminum only bass club. If interested in info send me a PM. 

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Posted

Bill,

Can you give credit to the company that did the great job at a reasonable price?

Matt Henry

Posted

For gouges like Bill is showing off, you can simply smooth out the edges, aquire some paint and flake to match, mix it up in a Solo cup with 2-Hour epoxy until it's as close to the original finish as possible, prep it with prep-sol or rubbing alcohol, warm the area slightly with a hair dryer, lay it in with a popsicle stick or a credit card as it begins to stiffen up, then stretch and tape a piece of Saran Wrap or wax paper over it to keep it level with the edges until it sets up good (use a credit card over the saran wrap/wax paper, as needed, to keep it smooth).......Then use some #0000 steel wool and a few drops of water to lightly blend it in.  Hit it with alcohol again. Rub on a final thin coat of straight clear epoxy, let dry a couple days..... Then polish and wax.   

Good for at least 5-6 years. After that it may begin to yellow a bit....but by that time you'll likely have enough other blemishes on the boat that it won't matter. 😊

Posted
11 hours ago, fishinwrench said:

For gouges like Bill is showing off, you can simply smooth out the edges, aquire some paint and flake to match, mix it up in a Solo cup with 2-Hour epoxy until it's as close to the original finish as possible, prep it with prep-sol or rubbing alcohol, warm the area slightly with a hair dryer, lay it in with a popsicle stick or a credit card as it begins to stiffen up, then stretch and tape a piece of Saran Wrap or wax paper over it to keep it level with the edges until it sets up good (use a credit card over the saran wrap/wax paper, as needed, to keep it smooth).......Then use some #0000 steel wool and a few drops of water to lightly blend it in.  Hit it with alcohol again. Rub on a final thin coat of straight clear epoxy, let dry a couple days..... Then polish and wax.   

Good for at least 5-6 years. After that it may begin to yellow a bit....but by that time you'll likely have enough other blemishes on the boat that it won't matter. 😊

Oh yeah - that sounds easy enough.😧

You lost me at "acquire some paint and flake to match"!🤦‍♂️

"Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups."  George Carlin

"The only money ever wasted is money never spent."  Me.

Posted
1 hour ago, vernon said:

Oh yeah - that sounds easy enough.😧

You lost me at "acquire some paint and flake to match"!🤦‍♂️

I’d do it a bit differently but it is pretty simple. 
 

Flake to match can usually be obtained from the manufacturer. If you can’t get that, like they have gone out of business, there are other ways. 
 

I repaired part of the cap on a Champion that was completely destroyed when a buddy tried to put it on the trailer when the trolling motor was deployed. In his defense it was during a horrible thunderstorm that we got caught in. 

 

 

Posted

Yes the decals were removed. To get your materials you just need your boat serial no as Wrench stated. I sent a picture to Phoenix with the serial number and they sent me the products to fix it

Rick Lisek did the work. He is a full time guide but does repair work thru the Winter. He was up at Eberlins doing fiberglass these past few weeks

His wife has coivid and is not doing well and he and his daughter are in quarantine right now. Please say a prayer for them. 

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